2010 SS Suspension Upgrade Recommendations

[ABM2SS]

The kit I purchased is the 1LE+. The "+" is that it came with Rear Cradle Bushings. My questions are:
- Is it worth the extra effort to replace the Cradle Bushings (will I notice the difference on my street driven car)?
- How hard is it to remove the Bushings from the Cradle (picturing the effort it took to remove the Bushings from my Differential Housing)?

[CamaroCracka]

It's about the same level of effort for cradle bushings as it is for diff bushings. You go online and all the videos show people using a 1 inch socket as a spacer and torch to allow the front bushing to fall out. The rears are not as easy. I ended cutting the tops of mine off with a sawzall and then putting a socket up in there. Only way I could get something to fit in the rear and I had to use the torch a lot in the rear. I would replace them for solid or poly, but not for different factory bushings unless yours are going. In fact, I was under the impression that factory bushings were not available as a replacement part. Those might be fairly popular in the for sale section.

[ABM2SS]

I was under the impression that factory bushings were not available as a replacement part. Those might be fairly popular in the for sale section.

Thanks CamaroCraka, You helped make my decision. My originals seem pretty solid yet. I'll get the part numbers and list them in the For Sale section.

[Joe.G]

I had a Bearing press for big trucks when i did mine, They pushed right out with Zero heat and no effort. Took about 15 Min to do all 4 once the cradle was out of the car. To me this is a must do Mod I hated the way the rear of my car wiggled and that was with new Factory bushings. I would not replace them with Factory bushings I suggest Solid.

[ABM2SS]

Any ideas, tips or tricks to removing the Cradle side Rear Lower Control Arm bolts? I worked for about an hour last night trying to get this one out without damaging it...

[Joe.G]

Need a little more info, Is the bolt not spinning? Does it spin but can't back out? Try using a jack and relieve pressure, Most likely the bolt has pressure on it and is binding up, you need to relieve that by trying different positions.

[Lnch Mny]

Is this the one your are working on? I think I took the shock bolt and the other end bolt out to relieve the pressure. I don't remember having an issue taking this lower control arm off and replacing it. I'm sure other people will have ideas.

[ABM2SS]

Joe G, Lnch Mny,

Yes, that's the one. I have already removed the shock/spring assembly on that side. the nut is removed but the bolt seems to be seized in the bushing. I have applied much torque but it has not rotated.

[Joe.G]

Do you have and Impact gun, If so try that and see if it'll spin, You may have to heat it and beat it, I'd order a new bolt and either a bushing or new control arm.

[ABM2SS]

Do you have and Impact gun, If so try that and see if it'll spin, You may have to heat it and beat it, I'd order a new bolt and either a bushing or new control arm.

Yep. I need to replace the control arm as part of the 1LE upgrade. I'll order new bushings and keep at it until I get that damn bolt out.

[Joe.G]

If you are replacing control arm no need for new bushings heat it and try getting it spinning with an impact once free beat it out.

[ABM2SS]

I finally figured out the proper method for removing that bolt...
1) Remove the nut
2) Make a futile attempt to apply as much torque as possible to the 21mm Hex (no room to get an impact Wrench on it)
3) Try Hammering the Bolt out (another futile attempt)
4) Use a socket and a Breaker Bar to twist off the Small Hex on the end of the threaded end.
5) Mushroom what's left of that end with a 5Lb sledge.
6) Use your Sawzall and the crappy blades that you have in attempt to cut through the Control Arm and the Bolt (good thing I was going to upfit to 2012+ Control Arms anyway).
7) Go to Bear hardware and buy the best metal cutting blades that they have.
8) Cut the damn thing off.

[Lnch Mny]

GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!

[Domangue418]

Originally Posted by Back In Time

I replaced a lot of suspension parts this summer. I went with Detroit Speed rear bar which came with the upgrade links. Making this change from F-3 to F-4 lower control arms are needed and I went with GM direct. They come with bushings. Used some BMR parts and only issue was the trailing arms which I could not get to fit around the new bushings. The rep I talked to was not real helpful and they were slow to return emails. Phastek contacted them and made it right so all is good. I will say the BMR rep did let me know the measurement that the open end of the arm should be and I mic d the set I had. My pair were .1 narrower . I’m having a friend at a local machine shop mill them. The other BMR products were great

Do u have BMR lower control arms? The FE4 end links will eat up inside of a 17 inch wheel. I’m going to FE3 for this reason but getting BMRs drag bar