Spun bearing

[RobZL1]

Redline or LS Driven in my opinion. I like the Redline 5w30. A little thicker than most off-the-shelf stuff, more zddp, etc. Stock bottom end still gets a 30wt in my opinion. I doubt your failure had anything to do with viscosity, personally.

[beersngars]

LS Driven.. This is the oil Hutter Racing pushes. They build lots of high HP engines including NASCAR stuff.

[silversleeper]

Originally Posted by Bigtime53

I cannot express this enough STAY AWAY FROM PENNZOIL!!!! Maybe some of you like that oil but not me. I have had catastrophic damage to motors in the past with this oil. I do not know about the synthetic oil but just having pennzoil on the bottle scares me away from it.

I had it ruin some small gas engines with sludge way back in the 80s, before there were synthetic oils. I haven't heard of anything out of the ordinary on their current full synthetic or their base oil either for that matter. I did stay away from it, like you, until recently because of that.
I'm not saying it's better than the other oils mentioned previously in my opinion, just sayin' it might be ok, even if it's not the best.

[RyangAsh]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Man that’s crazy. Every LSA guy Z or V around here is running that 20w50 VR1 and I was the only one running 5w30 and I somehow spun a bearing. Both my tuners at GPI recommended the VR1 as well. As it’s not daily driven. I guess I’ll do some more research.



Yeah I could see that. Do we have an aftermarket option that would work well? Haven’t done much research on the pan.



Yeah for sure. Upgrading bearings and oil pump, with big cam for sure while it’s out. I don’t have the power goal of 1,xxx so I think I’ll be fine just with OE parts (crank, etc) if destroyed. But we shall see.



Care to explain why? I never really understood pan volume in comparison to a HV oil pump. If the pump is flowing more sufficiently then what’s the need for a bigger pan? Just curious.

I run 20-50w vr1 in my big block...not saying it isn't good oil, the tolerances in an LSA aren't meant for it though. Shit, you can spin a bearing anyway though..

[Happy_Dan]

Just remember that VR1 had no detergents in it. Meant for race applications.

[Astatenate]

The cars only brought out and beat on. So I guess it’s pretty much a race car. Oil is changed every 1.5-2k miles. So 5-20 wouldn’t be too bad. I just feel like if I’m not upgrading the oil pump. I at least need a better oil in there. Gives me peace of mind.

[CJ27]

In the same boat. Spun a rod bearing and in the process of rebuilding right now. I too was running mobil 1 5w 30. I was not even getting on it just cruising and heard the knocking. I did notice for about a month before the oil pressure at idle only showed 14 to 15 psi when warm.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by CJ27

In the same boat. Spun a rod bearing and in the process of rebuilding right now. I too was running mobil 1 5w 30. I was not even getting on it just cruising and heard the knocking. I did notice for about a month before the oil pressure at idle only showed 14 to 15 psi when warm.

Both of these unfortunate incidents sound like they have more to do with the movement of the oil than the oil itself.

[xdamxincx]

there are many reasons these lsa's have bearing issues.. i have studied it some .. the lsa is set up with tight tolerences from factory with the forseen concept that the aluminum motor will grow when heated up. Aluminum motors expand and contract more than a cast iron block. I feel the lsa's get some premature wear upon start up and if the car is not up to temp before seeing some load may be a contributing factor.. I think we should gather some data.. like which bearing/pics, oil specs, oil psi, start up treatment,mileage. etc... might be able to get a better understanding of whats causing these issues. but there are a lot of factors to consider ...

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by xdamxincx

there are many reasons these lsa's have bearing issues.. i have studied it some .. the lsa is set up with tight tolerences from factory with the forseen concept that the aluminum motor will grow when heated up. Aluminum motors expand and contract more than a cast iron block. I feel the lsa's get some premature wear upon start up and if the car is not up to temp before seeing some load may be a contributing factor.. I think we should gather some data.. like which bearing/pics, oil specs, oil psi, start up treatment,mileage. etc... might be able to get a better understanding of whats causing these issues. but there are a lot of factors to consider ...

I could give my personal experience. If anyone would like. To Talley them up lol

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Both of these unfortunate incidents sound like they have more to do with the movement of the oil than the oil itself.

Sure are
But I guess I’ll be at least making sure my factory oil pump is good. If it is. I’ll leave it alone. If not. Then I may upgrade to HV one. Regardless a better oil is going in it. With e85 dilution. I feel like 5-30 M1 isn’t going to cut it. And have my Rev limit moved from 7k back down to like 6500.

Originally Posted by CJ27

In the same boat. Spun a rod bearing and in the process of rebuilding right now. I too was running mobil 1 5w 30. I was not even getting on it just cruising and heard the knocking. I did notice for about a month before the oil pressure at idle only showed 14 to 15 psi when warm.

Geez man. Sorry to hear that. You going 416 or just rebuild?

[DrkPhx]

IMO 7000 rpm is way too high for a stock LSA with the stock valves which are very heavy. It also spins the SC excessively high and generates a lot of heat which translates into high combustion chamber temps which is never good. I've run Mobil 0w-40 in mine since 2014 when I swapped cams. It's a good oil imo. 12.4 AFR at WOT is on the lean side and with too much timing can cause failures. Even with TF heads I keep mine on the conservative side for AFR and only shift at 6500 rpms. I've been down the stroker road before with my previous set up and it gets expensive fast.

[CJ27]

Geez man. Sorry to hear that. You going 416 or just rebuild?

Stock displacement but better pistons, rods and Frankenstein stage 1 ported heads. Oh and the "she gone" cam.

[Risingson05]

I replaced my oil pump to a 10355 for my truck . From what I was told by tsp that stock oil pumps tend to cavitate and starts to aerate at Rpms above 5500rpms .
When it’s time to do my z I will be replacing my oil pump , as I’m changing the cam right from the get go, I’ll already be there , plan on cutting cross member and using that kit I bought from here to modify cross member to get the oil pan out . To me it’s just that much more extra insurance besides the pump is only like 200-300.00 from what I remember . I’ve also always ran driven ls-30 and I do have a mm catch can aswell .

I’ve been running cam and. Other bolt ons for my truck for over 3 years now

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Risingson05

I replaced my oil pump to a 10355 for my truck . From what I was told by tsp that stock oil pumps tend to cavitate and starts to aerate at Rpms above 5500rpms.

That is accurate. Here is the graph: