Ideal Garage clutch master cylinder discontinued?

[TheBrightSide]

Does anyone have any Ideal Garage used or new (maybe open box unused) clutch master cylinders, for the SS/V8 manuals? It looks like Ideal Garage, LLC went defunct back before even 2018 or 2019; I’m not entirely sure…

I want something that will help my clutch engagement act “quicker” or more sharply/abruptly. I can drop the clutch around the vague biting point on my clutch pedal, and it still doesn’t “shock” the drivetrain (usually a clear indicator of good engagement IMO). This might also be due to having a RWD drivetrain setup, as opposed to something like a FWD transaxle design.

I thought this car had a “sucky” factory clutch master cylinder, but upon more research, even the adjustable Ram clutch pedal, and the Tick clutch master cylinder, all have some minor issues and/or inconveniences that people run into; sometimes even receiving defective products or running into defective issues right after installing.

I’m on a bone stock clutch setup, with barely 33k miles, and I recently removed the factory clutch pedal return (assist) spring, while leaving a DIY style clutch return spring. This DIY spring setup does give a bit less pressure for depressing the clutch pedal, compared to the factory clutch return spring; which makes it easier to let up the clutch pedal.

I no longer have to fight the overwhelming pedal pressure from the stock clutch return spring and end up getting sloppy shifts, from not being able to properly modulate and find the clutch engagement point through the clutch pedal itself. The “dual action” mechanism of the factory clutch return spring is funky, even though it helps to keep the pedal depressed, once it’s almost all the way down to the floor. This still doesn’t help the fact that the biting point on the stock clutch, is fairly “mushing” feeling and not super obvious.

I’m not sure if upgrading to a more aggressive (stage) clutch and/or lightwheel flywheel, will help the biting point grab better; aside from the engagement point physically changing on the clutch pedal level itself. Right now, the release of the clutch pedal is more smooth and linear than stock (with the help of my DIY spring), but I feel like I’m only able to modulate better than before, simply out of experience and removing the awkward factory spring with 2 different forces.

[TheBrightSide]

Anyone have any idea….? I’m really trying to get ahold of a used or refurbished, or even new/unused Ideal Garage clutch master cylinder if possible. The factory one doesn’t feel like it holds up, and the TSB I found, apparently replaces the factory SS clutch pedal assemblies with a complete ZL1 assembly. I would rather not spend hundreds on a Tick Performance or Ram adjustable clutch master cylinder, just to have those wind up not working or being what I expected…

Also, my clutch pedal does return all the way to the top with or without any springs, but the top usually has this sticky spot beyond the top return spot, where the pedal hinges creak like a 1/4 or 1/2 of an extra mm back, if you pull up the clutch pedal with the front of your toes. The area where the pedal hinges are, has some plastic bushings, but idk if that’s what’s causing the creaking; and I’m hesitant to spray any lubricant in the area(s)..

[CamaroCracka]

I had an Ideal Garage master cylinder and ended up going back to OEM because it was leaking internally. All the clutch issues I've had on both cars in relation to pedal not coming back were fixed with remote reservoirs and extended bleeder lines.

Lubricant won't hurt anything up there, but it will make it collect dirt so you or the next owner get to deal with that next time you're upside down trying to work under the dash. When I need to put lubricant in a tight spot, I use glue brushes. I just bought 50 for like $10. Not always the solution, but if it will do the job, it's much cleaner than spraying white lithium everywhere.