FE4 OR BMR Lower Control Arms - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Rogan · 05-15-2014, 11:49 PM

Broke the tab on the LCA.
PFADT Sways and reinforcement.

Wondering which route to take. Fe4 (way cheaper) or BMR. 6 Road Course events a year.

caverman · 05-16-2014, 12:05 AM

1LE is a pretty bad ass track car an it uses FE4 controls arms......just sayin'

Rogan · 05-16-2014, 12:19 AM

Looks like I would need bmr toe rods as well.

So with the zl1 fe4 lca - will my pfadt sways be fine? Just double checking before I order.

Rogan · 05-16-2014, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caverman

1LE is a pretty bad ass track car an it uses FE4 controls arms......just sayin'

Good to hear. Thanks!

SS PANTHER · 05-16-2014, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogan

Looks like I would need bmr toe rods as well.

So with the zl1 fe4 lca - will my pfadt sways be fine? Just double checking before I order.

Your rear FE3 sway is much shorter than the FE4 sway bar. You will have to purchase a new sway and endlinks if you go FE4. If you want to stay with your Pfadt FE3 bar get new endlinks and the FE3 sway bar mount reinforcement mounts. I would upgrade to the FE4 LCA's. Call Tyler at JDP Motorsports. He can hook you up.

caverman · 05-16-2014, 07:53 AM

Panther is correct, if you want to go to an FE4 setup (which I would if I were you since you track the car) then you'll need to change the rear swaybar and endlinks. You can however buy the FE4 control arms with the reinforcement mounts and use your FE3 rear bar because the new control arms have connections points for both the FE3 and FE4 bars. That being said you've already done the FE3 with the reinforcement plates and you see how that worked out for you.

I also agree with Panther in telling you to talk to www.JDPMotorsports.com and let them give you your options.

BMR Sales · 05-16-2014, 11:11 AM

You have a couple different options here.....

You can purchase direct replacement OEM lower control arms and stick with the same FE3 sway bar set-up that you have now. If doing this, it would be highly advisable to add the BMR ELK009 End Link Mount Braces to prevent this same reoccurrence again.

Or, you can purchase the late model (FE4) factory OEM lower control arms and upgrade to the FE4 system. As previously stated, you will have to change to an FE4 compatible rear sway bar and FE4 End links.

Or, you could purchase the BMR lower control arms which are now compatible with FE3 or FE4 systems. So, you could keep your FE3 sway bar set-up for now, and upgrade to FE4 later down the road. No need for the end link mount braces with the BMR LCA's. If your car is already lowered, you could use the TCA028 LCA's which are pre-shortened to give you close to factory alignment specs. Or, if you want additional negative camber for the track, you would need to use the TCA029 LCA's.

Please let me know if you have any further questions.....

JDP Sales · 05-16-2014, 12:06 PM

Any lower control arm, if buying new (OEM) will have provisions for both style sway bars as the new part superseded the old.

My suggestion would be to go with a new set of FE4 style sway bars with our FE4 suspension update package. You'll have a much better setup than you have now and it will be stronger and quieter as well. Not to mention, there are plenty of V6 guys that would love to buy your sport sways.

We have a couple different packages put together that include everything needed for the swap. Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions.

As always, thanks for the support guys!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

BMR Sales · 05-16-2014, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

Any lower control arm, if buying new (OEM) will have provisions for both style sway bars as the new part superseded the old.

Good to know....Thanks!!!

Rogan · 05-16-2014, 08:09 PM

Decisions decisions...

JDP Sales · 05-19-2014, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

Good to know....Thanks!!!

Anytime! Happy to help!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogan

Decisions decisions...

With you actually working the car out on track, you'll notice a big difference upgrading to the FE4 bars. The car will feel much more fluid and not quite as twitchy.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Rogan · 05-19-2014, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

Anytime! Happy to help!

With you actually working the car out on track, you'll notice a big difference upgrading to the FE4 bars. The car will feel much more fluid and not quite as twitchy.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

yeah...you are right. but not in the mood to change the sway bars to work with the fe4. isn't that what I would have to do in order to put the fe4s on?

caverman · 05-19-2014, 10:05 PM

Sounds like there is confusion here....

Currently you have a FE3 sway bar with FE3 end links. As you can see if you push your car hard with a set of aftermarket sway bars your control arms more than likely won't stand up to the stress. You have a couple of options.

1. Replace your lower control arms with a new set of OEM ones. The new LCAs come with both FE3 and FE4 connection points now. GM now makes all of their LCA fit both FE3 or FE4 setups. You can just install the new LCA and use what you have including the Pfadt reinforcement pieces. However, IMO in the long run you'll end up with the same scenario eventually but at least you know about it now and can keep an eye on it. This is probably the cheapest/easiest fix but also the most inefficient IMO.

2. Replace your LCA with and set of OEM ones and switch out your FE3 bar for an FE4 bar with FE4 drop links. IMO the FE4 is a much better setup even if you use the OEM FE4 drop links. This should help you out at the track plus you shouldn't be in the same boat you're in now down the road. In addition you can probably get a majority of what you paid for your rear sway bar again if you were to take it off and sell it.

3. Buy BMR's aftermarket LCA. I don't know a whole bunch about them but I'm pretty sure you can still run either the FE3 or FE4 swaybar. If you went with an FE4 sway bar you would have to change out to FE4 drop links as well. I also believe the BMR LCA has a much stronger connection point for the FE3 end links. Good chance you got them and stuck with your FE3 setup you wouldn't end up with the same problem you have now.

Either way you're going to need to get the car aligned again. Make sure to get it aligned to the Aggressive Street specs or maybe even Track specs if you mostly track the car.

tw78911sc · 05-19-2014, 10:43 PM

The FE4 geometry is better than the FE3 as well as being a stronger piece to mount he endlinks to.

05-15-2014, 11:49 PM	#1
Rogan No Pain No Gain Drives: Yellow 5th Gen 2SS RS Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: GA Posts: 1,519	FE4 OR BMR Lower Control Arms Broke the tab on the LCA. PFADT Sways and reinforcement. Wondering which route to take. Fe4 (way cheaper) or BMR. 6 Road Course events a year. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS/L99 - Headers/CAI/SWAYs/CoilOvers/Tune/Steel Braided Brake Lines/Frozen Slotted Rotors Last edited by Rogan; 05-16-2014 at 12:18 AM.

05-16-2014, 12:05 AM	#2
caverman Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 7,111	1LE is a pretty bad ass track car an it uses FE4 controls arms......just sayin' __________________ *-2010 Camaro* 2SS \| M6 \| VR w/White Stripes \| 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow \| LPE 3.91 gears \| ADM tuned \| Halltech w/ADM Scoop \| Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod \| BC Coilovers\| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars \| Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings \| VMax TB \| Morimoto Projectors \| MGW shifter \| Red Calipers Build Journal

05-16-2014, 12:19 AM	#3
Rogan No Pain No Gain Drives: Yellow 5th Gen 2SS RS Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: GA Posts: 1,519	Looks like I would need bmr toe rods as well. So with the zl1 fe4 lca - will my pfadt sways be fine? Just double checking before I order. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS/L99 - Headers/CAI/SWAYs/CoilOvers/Tune/Steel Braided Brake Lines/Frozen Slotted Rotors

05-16-2014, 07:53 AM	#6
caverman Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 7,111	Panther is correct, if you want to go to an FE4 setup (which I would if I were you since you track the car) then you'll need to change the rear swaybar and endlinks. You can however buy the FE4 control arms with the reinforcement mounts and use your FE3 rear bar because the new control arms have connections points for both the FE3 and FE4 bars. That being said you've already done the FE3 with the reinforcement plates and you see how that worked out for you. I also agree with Panther in telling you to talk to www.JDPMotorsports.com and let them give you your options. __________________ *-2010 Camaro* 2SS \| M6 \| VR w/White Stripes \| 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow \| LPE 3.91 gears \| ADM tuned \| Halltech w/ADM Scoop \| Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod \| BC Coilovers\| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars \| Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings \| VMax TB \| Morimoto Projectors \| MGW shifter \| Red Calipers Build Journal

05-16-2014, 08:09 PM	#10
Rogan No Pain No Gain Drives: Yellow 5th Gen 2SS RS Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: GA Posts: 1,519	Decisions decisions... __________________ 2010 2SS/RS/L99 - Headers/CAI/SWAYs/CoilOvers/Tune/Steel Braided Brake Lines/Frozen Slotted Rotors

05-16-2014, 11:11 AM	#7
BMR Sales Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Seffner, FL Posts: 6,226	You have a couple different options here..... You can purchase direct replacement OEM lower control arms and stick with the same FE3 sway bar set-up that you have now. If doing this, it would be highly advisable to add the BMR ELK009 End Link Mount Braces to prevent this same reoccurrence again. Or, you can purchase the late model (FE4) factory OEM lower control arms and upgrade to the FE4 system. As previously stated, you will have to change to an FE4 compatible rear sway bar and FE4 End links. Or, you could purchase the BMR lower control arms which are now compatible with FE3 or FE4 systems. So, you could keep your FE3 sway bar set-up for now, and upgrade to FE4 later down the road. No need for the end link mount braces with the BMR LCA's. If your car is already lowered, you could use the TCA028 LCA's which are pre-shortened to give you close to factory alignment specs. Or, if you want additional negative camber for the track, you would need to use the TCA029 LCA's. Please let me know if you have any further questions.....

05-16-2014, 12:06 PM	#8
JDP Sales Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 9,621	Any lower control arm, if buying new (OEM) will have provisions for both style sway bars as the new part superseded the old. My suggestion would be to go with a new set of FE4 style sway bars with our FE4 suspension update package. You'll have a much better setup than you have now and it will be stronger and quieter as well. Not to mention, there are plenty of V6 guys that would love to buy your sport sways. We have a couple different packages put together that include everything needed for the swap. Feel free to call, PM or email me anytime with questions. As always, thanks for the support guys! Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007

05-19-2014, 10:05 PM	#13
caverman Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 7,111	Sounds like there is confusion here.... Currently you have a FE3 sway bar with FE3 end links. As you can see if you push your car hard with a set of aftermarket sway bars your control arms more than likely won't stand up to the stress. You have a couple of options. 1. Replace your lower control arms with a new set of OEM ones. The new LCAs come with both FE3 and FE4 connection points now. GM now makes all of their LCA fit both FE3 or FE4 setups. You can just install the new LCA and use what you have including the Pfadt reinforcement pieces. However, IMO in the long run you'll end up with the same scenario eventually but at least you know about it now and can keep an eye on it. This is probably the cheapest/easiest fix but also the most inefficient IMO. 2. Replace your LCA with and set of OEM ones and switch out your FE3 bar for an FE4 bar with FE4 drop links. IMO the FE4 is a much better setup even if you use the OEM FE4 drop links. This should help you out at the track plus you shouldn't be in the same boat you're in now down the road. In addition you can probably get a majority of what you paid for your rear sway bar again if you were to take it off and sell it. 3. Buy BMR's aftermarket LCA. I don't know a whole bunch about them but I'm pretty sure you can still run either the FE3 or FE4 swaybar. If you went with an FE4 sway bar you would have to change out to FE4 drop links as well. I also believe the BMR LCA has a much stronger connection point for the FE3 end links. Good chance you got them and stuck with your FE3 setup you wouldn't end up with the same problem you have now. Either way you're going to need to get the car aligned again. Make sure to get it aligned to the Aggressive Street specs or maybe even Track specs if you mostly track the car. __________________ *-2010 Camaro* 2SS \| M6 \| VR w/White Stripes \| 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow \| LPE 3.91 gears \| ADM tuned \| Halltech w/ADM Scoop \| Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod \| BC Coilovers\| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars \| Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings \| VMax TB \| Morimoto Projectors \| MGW shifter \| Red Calipers Build Journal

05-19-2014, 10:43 PM	#14
tw78911sc Drives: 14 1SS Camaro 1LE, NPP, Recaros Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: NC Posts: 819	The FE4 geometry is better than the FE3 as well as being a stronger piece to mount he endlinks to.