Diff Oil recommended but...

[ReVeNanTSS]

Hi guys!

I have a little wine sound from my rear end on speeds 80-100km/h. I know that manual says about 75W90 but I use thicker oil 75W140(Amsoil) for all my posi rear ends . Is it ok?

P.S.: We have a very hot summer here +38-42 degrees C (100-107 F)

[Ashen L99]

Should not hurt, a little whine is nothing to worry about. Is it on decel or all the time?

[ReVeNanTSS]

Originally Posted by Ashen L99

Should not hurt, a little whine is nothing to worry about. Is it on decel or all the time?

It is on acceleration. When depressing acceleretion whine is gone.

['10CamaroDude]

Originally Posted by ReVeNanTSS

It is on acceleration. When depressing acceleretion whine is gone.

A howl or whine during acceleration over a small or large speed range is
usually caused by worn or burned ring and pinion gears or improper gear set
up.

Rumbling or whirring at speeds over about 20 mph can be caused by worn
carrier bearings. The noise may change while turning.

I have 173,000 on my Camaro, and the diff is not making any noises. I probably
just jinxed that...

[ReVeNanTSS]

Yes I know it is ring and pinion. Is it possible to change only ring pinion in future without changing pumpkin?

['10CamaroDude]

It's actually 100% easier to change the whole unit, rather than taking it out,
taking it apart, and changing the ring and pinion gears, bearings, setting preload, and
spacing, putting it back together, then back in the car. You also have that marker
step where you mark the ring gear to check for proper gear mesh. That's another
pulling the cover off, looking, and if okay, back on and fluid fill again. The only
time you want to change the ring and pinion is when going with non standard gear
swaps, like something GM didn't offer...

The LX/LD Dodge Charger is the same way, they call it a carrier. Mine had a 2.89
carrier, I wanted better. For $50, +$50 shipping, I got a 3.64 carrier on eBay, and it
only took two hours to swap it. I was not going to pull it out, take it all apart,
change the ring and pinion with all the setting up, then put it back in. That would
have taken all day, and more money and labor. Naa, a whole unit swap was so
much faster and easier. If it becomes a concern, just buy another unit and pop it
in.

These usually do not go bad unless you're continually drag racing the car. There
is no shaft or differential up and down motion, so the pinion angle doesn't change
to put stress on the pinion gear. It's all relatively a straight shot. The only movement
you get is from bushings, and mount flexing. It's no where near a solid axle like my
Mustang has that swings up and down on a panhard rod. The diffs in these cars
should almost last forever under normal driving habits.

[ReVeNanTSS]

Originally Posted by '10CamaroDude

It's actually 100% easier to change the whole unit, rather than taking it out,
taking it apart, and changing the ring and pinion gears, bearings, setting preload, and
spacing, putting it back together, then back in the car. You also have that marker
step where you mark the ring gear to check for proper gear mesh. That's another
pulling the cover off, looking, and if okay, back on and fluid fill again. The only
time you want to change the ring and pinion is when going with non standard gear
swaps, like something GM didn't offer...

The LX/LD Dodge Charger is the same way, they call it a carrier. Mine had a 2.89
carrier, I wanted better. For $50, +$50 shipping, I got a 3.64 carrier on eBay, and it
only took two hours to swap it. I was not going to pull it out, take it all apart,
change the ring and pinion with all the setting up, then put it back in. That would
have taken all day, and more money and labor. Naa, a whole unit swap was so
much faster and easier. If it becomes a concern, just buy another unit and pop it
in.

These usually do not go bad unless you're continually drag racing the car. There
is no shaft or differential up and down motion, so the pinion angle doesn't change
to put stress on the pinion gear. It's all relatively a straight shot. The only movement
you get is from bushings, and mount flexing. It's no where near a solid axle like my
Mustang has that swings up and down on a panhard rod. The diffs in these cars
should almost last forever under normal driving habits.

That means just change oil and foeget. When it whill break change all unit and go

[Avenging Orange]

Start by changing the fluid. Make sure is has the friction modifier in it.
These cars are noisy by nature.
You should hear the diff with aftermarket bushings.

[ReVeNanTSS]

Originally Posted by Avenging Orange

Start by changing the fluid. Make sure is has the friction modifier in it.
These cars are noisy by nature.
You should hear the diff with aftermarket bushings.

I changed oil. Refill with Amsoil 75W140 severe gear plus added friction modifier Amsoil Slip Lock. Noise disappeared. Yes before i chanhed bushing to BMRs. Now i habe a little clunk in diff when puting D with brake pressed and little throttle added(Makes clunk 1 time). Then opposite gear in R same clunk 1 time

[Moto-Mojo]

I just had to drain my first Diff change with Amsoil Severe Gear. I’m a huge Amsoil fan going back to the 80’s. But something about that and Redline’s LSD additive (all the store had) made it growl horribly after about 2 months and 3-500 miles. Only when turning... I thought it might like GM’s gear oil and additive so that’s what I put back in it. Quiet for now but I read it could return. The Amsoil was quiet at first too.

[christianchevell]

there is a additive that's supposed to go in with the stock fluid BTW and without it may cause a whine...I would never use something not in the recommended grade as to void a warranty unless someone is very versed in the exact application and parts used for it... BTW

[Moto-Mojo]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

there is a additive that's supposed to go in with the stock fluid BTW and without it may cause a whine...I would never use something not in the recommended grade as to void a warranty unless someone is very versed in the exact application and parts used for it... BTW

In the past, on my GM trucks, Amsoil was ALL that I used with diff oil changes. NO additives, zero problems over hundreds of thousands of miles. I think I went wrong with the Redline crap. I should have just stuck to the Amsoil. I get these cars are more like a fine, Swiss watch than my truck diffs. I just hope I didn't do permanent damage.

[FasNuf]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

there is a additive that's supposed to go in with the stock fluid BTW and without it may cause a whine...I would never use something not in the recommended grade as to void a warranty unless someone is very versed in the exact application and parts used for it... BTW

OEM Fluid has the additive in it already, but it seems the SS might need the additive. My service manual only covers the 2014, but I can check to see what it says and get back here.
Here's an older thread on the ZL1

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=388177

[Greenhornet2]

I am not a fan of changing gear oil the a thicker viscosity. It may cause poor lubrication of the clutches and chatter/groan. Will it hurt? not really. For every day driving I would stick with 75/90. If you are getting a whine you have wear. Likely the side carrier bearing has some play so when the diff is loaded it is pushing the carrier to the side changing the tooth contact pattern making the whine. Road course or towing is the only time I'd use 75/140 personally.