TR6060 pedal issue

[1970judge]

I have some issues I need to address and am wondering what way to go. Car is 100% bone stock, aside from hi-temp brake fluid. I am a regular track day person, have thousands of miles on track (as well as road trips).

A couple of years ago, I did a full track day without issue. I then drove 2 hours home and was waiting to pull in a spot (1st gear, clutch in, 0mph) the car stalled. with my foot on the clutch still, I restarted the car...died. I then realize the clutch pedal is on the floor. I can pull it up with my foot, but it would slowly bleed down back to the floor on its own. This continued, and I just got it towed the rest of the way home.

Dealer diagnoses a bad clutch master and fixes.


A couple months later I go to another track day. Later in the day I go from 4th-5th at 120+ and it just revs, like ive missed a shift. SO I try again and no luck, slowing down I try to go to 4th, 3rd, 2nd...its like im locked out of all gears..until I come to a stop and the car dies. I then immediately recognize that from before and sure enough the pedal is on the floor. Restart, car dies immediately (its like when you start a car and accidentally let off the pedal and stall the car). I try getting the pedal off the floor trying to get it to where the car is in neutral and not a gear so I can start it and not die. AFter minute of fidgeting I finally feel it disengage, fire the car up, and get towed to pit lane. It sits overnight, and next morning loaded on the trailer just fine, probably could have drove it home.

Dealer diagnoses bunk clutch master (but this one was NEW) again and swaps. I've avoided the track ever since, and had NO issue on street or road trips.


I dont quite know what to make of this. Its like when I was going from 4th to 5th, it never disengaged 4th and was stuck there. But then overnight cool off, it felt fine. The first time, lifting the clutch pedal off the floor and it would suck back down to the floor on its own was something ive never had happen before.


Part of me feels like it was extreme heat related? But the first time it happened it was after just driving 2 hours home, not AT the track?

Dirty fluid? In the moment, maybe I could have bled it if I had one of the speed bleeders?

Separate the clutch/brake with one of the reservoir kits?


I'm at a point where I will be 1,000 miles away from home at Sebring with no trailer, this summer. If this happens to me out there, I'll be way up shit creek.

So I want to solve this before then. Again, 0 issues on road trips, daily driving, etc. And 0 issues in all of my previous track days, car has been solid as a rock. Never hesitated to drive it across country and track it and drive it home. But i've been hesitant ever since my issue left me stranded overnight 5 hours from home.

Heat? some gunk got in there? Slave cylinder giving it up? Thoughts?


-Marcus

[Fanch1LE]

Because you're tracking the car, two things I would definitely do first, both of which you've mentioned...

I would install a separate clutch reservoir. I bought one of the common kits listed here on the forum but also purchased a Wilwood 4 oz. reservoir to use instead of the shot glass sized one that comes with the kit. Next I would bleed the clutch myself to know it was done right.

Seems like if it was heat related you would have experienced a loss of brake pedal response as well, since the brakes and clutch are sharing the same potentially overheated fluid. Common sense would say that if the dealer swapped the clutch master, they would have performed a proper bleed at that time. Don't make that assumption, especially if you're running the car on the track. Bleed it yourself and then you know there's no air in the system. I don't trust a dealership to change my oil. Just sayin.

And you do not have to have a speed bleeder installed to bleed the clutch. Sure it makes things way easier, but with the info on this forum I found that it's actually pretty simple to do it without a speed bleeder. Just need an offset box end wrench to reach the bleed nipple from the driver's side of the bell housing.

[CamaroCracka]

Definitely get divorced clutch reservoir. You can bleed the clutch without a remote bleeder, it's just more difficult. Enjoy the brake fluid rolling down your armpit. When you bleed it with the factory bleeder, you can't really use a vacuum bleeder because it will pull air past the threads. I had to use a vacuum pump on the port in the new reservoir after I bled it from under the car to get it right.

Heat can be a problem. I blew a hole in a flex joint when I got on the two step and it was blowing hot air on the clutch line. Before I got to the end of the quarter, I was locked out of 4th. Be sure your line is away from heat sources and heat wrap it if needed.

[George-CZ]

Most importantly, throw that stupid torsion spring out of the pedal (if Z/28 also has it like SS) and replace it with a tension spring.






You will be surprised how the car starts to feel completely different and pleasant to control.