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Old 08-28-2016, 12:48 PM   #267
Roto-fab 1



 
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We've received a few questions about the hood seal on our air box sometimes appearing creased in two areas. Here is an explanation...


The air box has its two most abrupt changes in those two areas which causes the bulb of the hood seal to crease when the seal is fully engaging the air box edge. The hood seal is not glued to the air box - it simply "sandwiches" the edge of the air box. If you pull the hood seal upwards about 1/8" in the creased area, it will help straighten the bulb and, in most cases, eliminate the crease. The hood should then push the areas down as needed during closing.
Along the same subject, you can use a similar technique if you question the contact of the hood seal and hood. You can go around the perimeter of the hood seal raising it 1/8". Next, close the hood and push down gently on the hood in the air box area. This isn't a necessary step, but it may give some of you peace of mind. The technique of sealing to the hood is questioned by many and rightfully so. Most intake systems using this technique don't effectively seal to the hood. The ones that don't are usually obvious because the top edge of the air box doesn't appear to be contoured the same as the hood.
With our systems, we seal to the hood any time we can. This technique provides all of the advantages of a lid. Additionally, it maximizes air box volume and allows us to package a larger filter. Rest assured, if we couldn't effectively seal to the hood, we would use a lid just as we did with our 2014-16 Chevrolet SS sedan air intake system.
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:31 PM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roto-fab 1 View Post
We've received a few questions about the hood seal on our air box sometimes appearing creased in two areas. Here is an explanation...


The air box has its two most abrupt changes in those two areas which causes the bulb of the hood seal to crease when the seal is fully engaging the air box edge. The hood seal is not glued to the air box - it simply "sandwiches" the edge of the air box. If you pull the hood seal upwards about 1/8" in the creased area, it will help straighten the bulb and, in most cases, eliminate the crease. The hood should then push the areas down as needed during closing.
Along the same subject, you can use a similar technique if you question the contact of the hood seal and hood. You can go around the perimeter of the hood seal raising it 1/8". Next, close the hood and push down gently on the hood in the air box area. This isn't a necessary step, but it may give some of you peace of mind. The technique of sealing to the hood is questioned by many and rightfully so. Most intake systems using this technique don't effectively seal to the hood. The ones that don't are usually obvious because the top edge of the air box doesn't appear to be contoured the same as the hood.
With our systems, we seal to the hood any time we can. This technique provides all of the advantages of a lid. Additionally, it maximizes air box volume and allows us to package a larger filter. Rest assured, if we couldn't effectively seal to the hood, we would use a lid just as we did with our 2014-16 Chevrolet SS sedan air intake system.
will it matter if we dont do this stuff (adjustments)? will it affect its performance? just clarifying..
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:15 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sledgehammer70 View Post
Whats in the box and some of the design choices with the Roto-Fab setup.


waiting in vain... for the numbers... install video.. and please.. please.. include the sound tube delete install..
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:23 PM   #270
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gprox_69 he just posted the Roto-Fab intake install today but has the system with the sound tube not the delete kit. Here it is: https://youtu.be/gYdRNjFof8U
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Upgrades include: Roto-Fab intake, Mishimoto catch can, MBRP cat-back Race exhaust, TSP 1 7/8 headers, EFI E85 Flex Fuel, MRR M017 graphite wheels with Nitto N555 G2 tires, Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, Powder coated Brembo calipers, BMR suspension, Eibach sport springs, Emblempros fender badges


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Old 08-28-2016, 02:27 PM   #271
Roto-fab 1



 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gprox_69 View Post
waiting in vain... for the numbers... install video.. and please.. please.. include the sound tube delete install..
We will definitely get a video up this week. It has been very busy around the shop and we just haven't had the resources to allocate to it.
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:52 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gprox_69 View Post
will it matter if we dont do this stuff (adjustments)? will it affect its performance? just clarifying..
No, it's not necessary. The exception would be if the the hood was actually higher than on our test car. There tends to be some car to car variation, but the 5/8" diameter bulb is used to take up that variation.
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Old 08-28-2016, 03:47 PM   #273
R3DLT1
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Waiting on install video.... Why? So easy to install.
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Old 08-28-2016, 03:58 PM   #274
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Originally Posted by R3DLT1 View Post
Waiting on install video.... Why? So easy to install.
Not really, the install video for the CAI is critical since you have to drop the tranny. If you're good, you can install it within a day or so!
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:38 AM   #275
leadfoot93
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Originally Posted by Richard0nee View Post
Not really, the install video for the CAI is critical since you have to drop the tranny. If you're good, you can install it within a day or so!
Huh? You don't need to drop the tranny to install the CAI.
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:11 AM   #276
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Originally Posted by leadfoot93 View Post
Huh? You don't need to drop the tranny to install the CAI.
im assuming he was being sarcastic....
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Old 08-30-2016, 01:52 PM   #277
Roto-fab 1



 
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We've had some questions on the "learning" process when our intake is installed. First, the system will learn through drive cycles without any special effort on your behalf. This doesn't happen over a precise time or mileage. If you vary throttle position and load frequently, it will learn quicker. Conversely, if you are on cruise control on the highway, the learning process is slower. A decent rule of thumb used to be about 30 miles of driving while changing throttle positions frequently. These cars can take longer to settle in at times. That's much of the reason for the 12,000+ test miles we have on our shop car.
A way to speed up the learning process is to reset fuel trims by disconnecting the battery overnight. FYI, this is also a good thing to do if you suspect you have gotten bad gasoline after you have ran the bad gas out and replaced it. When I say bad gas, that doesn't mean you will feel your car spitting and sputtering. We always run the highest octane possible, but just because the pump says 91 doesn't mean it actually is. The gas can become stale in the station's tank or a myriad of other things can cause it to be sub par. You often won't even notice unless you data log or drive aggressively on a regular basis. That's a bit off the original subject.
Also, we are often asked if our intake sets a check engine light (CEL). Absolutely not and that is not a normal thing for any intake during the learning cycle or otherwise. If you are setting a CEL something is wrong!
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Old 08-30-2016, 02:45 PM   #278
Sledgehammer70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gprox_69 View Post
waiting in vain... for the numbers... install video.. and please.. please.. include the sound tube delete install..
Install vid:

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=464874
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Old 08-31-2016, 05:16 PM   #279
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Just finished installing. I notice that the hood on the driver side is very slightly raised compared to the passenger side and seems to make the panel gaps bigger. Is anyone else noticing this or did I not sit the box properly?
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Old 08-31-2016, 05:44 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyg36 View Post
Just finished installing. I notice that the hood on the driver side is very slightly raised compared to the passenger side and seems to make the panel gaps bigger. Is anyone else noticing this or did I not sit the box properly?
Did you make sure the seal is all the way down on the top of the box? Also make sure all the feet are in all three grommets and the air inlet is sitting flush around the opening of the Roto-Fab air inlet opening.
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2016 Hyper Blue Metallic 1SS M6 with body color hood vents, Silver broken 5 spoke wheels, NPP dual exhaust, Dark Night Interior Spectrum Lighting, Illuminated door sills plates.

Upgrades include: Roto-Fab intake, Mishimoto catch can, MBRP cat-back Race exhaust, TSP 1 7/8 headers, EFI E85 Flex Fuel, MRR M017 graphite wheels with Nitto N555 G2 tires, Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, Powder coated Brembo calipers, BMR suspension, Eibach sport springs, Emblempros fender badges


Order ID: TDHQMS
1100 on 01/07/2016 at Penske Chevrolet
6000 on 02/23/2016 Delivered to customer
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