[63falcondude]

Originally Posted by crankaholic

Paaaaaaarrrrttyyyy

[TigerCamaro]

Originally Posted by 63falcondude

Paaaaaaarrrrttyyyy

If the camaro a rockin, don't comma knocking!!!!!.......Hey wait.....No back seat..... seats don't recline....... I'm glad I didn't have this car when I was young!!!!!

[crankaholic]

Originally Posted by 63falcondude

Paaaaaaarrrrttyyyy

I didn't plan on making that GIF, but the phone snapped off two pics as I was repositioning... the effect was cool enough.

Originally Posted by TigerCamaro

If the camaro a rockin, don't comma knocking!!!!!.......Hey wait.....No back seat..... seats don't recline....... I'm glad I didn't have this car when I was young!!!!!

Hahaha! Yeah, the Camaro is tight back there... but I'm sure I would have found a way back then

[cellsafemode]

OK, so the crap solid state switch used to control the rear reverse lights leaks current as everyone is aware. I toyed with the idea of adding a mechanical relay - which relies on current load to activate an electromagnet to trigger the switch which i have a pretty good idea would work since the current is what is really limited when the solid state switch is in it's "open" state. I saw 11.6v but very little current - still enough to drive led's though.

But the laziness got the better of me and I went ahead and got a set of 4 25watt load resistors and some artic silver thermal adhesive.

I figure 25 watt is enough for the rear because 1 halogen rear bulb was enough to bring the current down low enough to not drive my LED light in the other socket.

I'll use 2 of the remaining 3 load resistors on the turn signals up front ...which i was unable to trigger any calibration mode using the various methods I could find for various cars. None worked, still hyper flashed. Guess the only way to work with late model GM vehicles is reprogramming the bcm to not check ...which again. . laziness.

[BowtieV8]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

OK, so the crap solid state switch used to control the rear reverse lights leaks current as everyone is aware. I toyed with the idea of adding a mechanical relay - which relies on current load to activate an electromagnet to trigger the switch which i have a pretty good idea would work since the current is what is really limited when the solid state switch is in it's "open" state. I saw 11.6v but very little current - still enough to drive led's though.

But the laziness got the better of me and I went ahead and got a set of 4 25watt load resistors and some artic silver thermal adhesive.

I figure 25 watt is enough for the rear because 1 halogen rear bulb was enough to bring the current down low enough to not drive my LED light in the other socket.

I'll use 2 of the remaining 3 load resistors on the turn signals up front ...which i was unable to trigger any calibration mode using the various methods I could find for various cars. None worked, still hyper flashed. Guess the only way to work with late model GM vehicles is reprogramming the bcm to not check ...which again. . laziness.

...I understood some of these words. But not enough.

It was previously mentioned that the ATS and CTS use LED reverse lights. Anyone know where I can get the internal LED assembly for those cars? Or is the Gen5diy one the same? I want to order the right assembly now, and then give it to the dealership when I go to purchase the car. I'll have them do the LED upgrade for me.

As for the OP, now that you've been running this setup for a bit, have you had any issues or concerns pop up??

[cellsafemode]

Originally Posted by BowtieV8

...I understood some of these words. But not enough.

It was previously mentioned that the ATS and CTS use LED reverse lights. Anyone know where I can get the internal LED assembly for those cars? Or is the Gen5diy one the same? I want to order the right assembly now, and then give it to the dealership when I go to purchase the car. I'll have them do the LED upgrade for me.

As for the OP, now that you've been running this setup for a bit, have you had any issues or concerns pop up??

It's not the lights on those cars that eliminate the "glow" issue, it's the better reverse light switch that is different. Cars with factory LED reverse lights dont use the cheap switch like how we have that leaks current. We have a solid state switch and they have either a mechanical one or a solid state one with better electronics to eliminate the current leakage.

So short of replacing that, the best option is a resistor to bleed the leaked current. the 5ohm 50 watters are a bit overkill. You can make do with 8-10ohm 25watt, this will minimize waste while still accomplishing the same goal.

[BowtieV8]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

It's not the lights on those cars that eliminate the "glow" issue, it's the better reverse light switch that is different. Cars with factory LED reverse lights dont use the cheap switch like how we have that leaks current. We have a solid state switch and they have either a mechanical one or a solid state one with better electronics to eliminate the current leakage.

So short of replacing that, the best option is a resistor to bleed the leaked current. the 5ohm 50 watters are a bit overkill. You can make do with 8-10ohm 25watt, this will minimize waste while still accomplishing the same goal.

Ahh. See, now THAT I understand better. Thanks!

I also saw that you posted an alternative method to getting LED reverse lights. How are those workin out for ya? If it's cheaper and simpler, I'll go with that method.

[Adrian97c]

Originally Posted by BowtieV8

Ahh. See, now THAT I understand better. Thanks!



I also saw that you posted an alternative method to getting LED reverse lights. How are those workin out for ya? If it's cheaper and simpler, I'll go with that method.

Alternative?

[cellsafemode]

Originally Posted by Adrian97c

Alternative?

Maybe not so much alternative as just different products with less of a pricetag.

Mostly the same process.

[Adrian97c]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

Maybe not so much alternative as just different products with less of a pricetag.



Mostly the same process.

Where did you post that info? I must of missed it

[BowtieV8]

Originally Posted by Adrian97c

Where did you post that info? I must of missed it

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=444887

[crankaholic]

Originally Posted by BowtieV8

As for the OP, now that you've been running this setup for a bit, have you had any issues or concerns pop up??

No concerns from me... the lights are working fine and the standard 3M double sided tape is holding strong (220°F rating) even with the big temperature swings (80°F to 20°F) we've been having around here lately.

As for the extra power drain concerns - ehh, who cares? This isn't an EV and the reverse lights are barely on for 15 seconds anyway. So unless you take an hour to back into a parking space this won't be an issue. As I noted earlier, the heatsinks don't get above 180°F when I kept the reverse lights on for 30 seconds.

Since I bought the $30 part already I don't have any desire to research if a better reverse light switch can be used, like from a CTS or something, without resorting to resistors. I'm not even sure if that's the only part that would have to change (not an electrical engineer here), but if I had to make an educated guess I'd say that just replacing the switch should work.

[BAMF]

Hello,

I'm having a hard time disconnecting the wire that goes from the car to the tail light assembly. I pulled and pulled, and got no where with it. I see the little red tab which I assume is a locking mechanism. I pulled that back so it clicked, and it still wouldn't remove. Is there a trick to this part that you can suggest?

Not sure if it matters, but I have a 2017 2SS. I'm noticing that the wire from the car is attached to the body of the car in an extra place compared to all other pics and vids I'm seeing. This gives me way less room to work with since I can't pull the tail light assembly out and away from the car enough.

[SS 1LE]

So seeing this thread and realizing I can't just simply swap in LED bulbs for the reverse lamps like my past what, maybe five cars, kinda sucks...