2011 SS M6 won't go into gear after cam swap - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

TheBlueBrick · 03-21-2018, 03:42 PM

Just got done doing the cam swap over the weekend and it was a success thanks to the diy. It Was my first time doin anything that big. (not that big to some I know) I pulled the car out the garage after finishing to turn it around to let run and change the oil. Seemed fine that I can remember. Went to take the car to get tuned a couple hours later and it won't go into gear. If I start the car up in gear with the clutch in the car starts goin forward. If i hold the gear shift forward trying to put it in gear the car moves forward also (even with the clutch in) With the engine off the car goes into all gears. I'm wondering if there is anything I could of did to cause this while doin the cam swap or just bad timing. Any help or Info about the situation is appreciated. I've tried searching but haven't found anything so I'm thinking it's just bad timing and something is wrong with the clutch setup.

Olddudesrule · 03-21-2018, 03:52 PM

Not a timing issue. Sounds like a clutch engagement issue. Might try bleeding the clutch first, but it sounds like it's not disengaging from the flywheel completely. No issues at all prior to the cam swap? I can't think of anything you'd do during a cam swap that should effect the clutch, but I'm just an old shadetree.....Good luck!

TheBlueBrick · 03-21-2018, 04:24 PM

Didn't mean as in timing for the engine. I meant timing as in it went bad right after I got done. And there's been times over a year ago at the track I had the clutch sticking to the floor. But up until this point has been a daily driver and working fine.

Russell James · 03-21-2018, 05:10 PM

Something is wrong in the clutch hydraulics.

Does the pedal feel normal? Did the clutch hyd line get pinched during all this work?

Have someone under the car with a light watching and listening what is happening when you push the clutch in. With everything off. Closely look at that hyd line end to end.

christianchevell · 03-21-2018, 05:31 PM

I recommend and many on here have opted to do as well a separate clutch fluid reservoir, I bought mine from gen5diy.com site, was mounted to my terminal tower for the positive under the hood and works good and helps me because I can keep the contamination out of the brake fluid. Its just a small Holden GT reservoir but it works and a big suction syringe helps keep the fluid good.
A sticking pedal is not normal ever its disaster waiting to happen like a sticky shifter..With the age of your car if you have not inspected the slave and the most important throw out bearing support;( which BTW was made in plastic and is also one of the most common things changed when doing a clutch with a Monster clutch billet replacement as they can melt), you may want to look at it as something sounds as if its keeping your trans clutch engaged and the slave is the place to look IMO... good luck,
I btw love and use my Monster lt1s clutch daily and its very good at feeling like stock and taking abuse with the stock slave...many if not most aftermarket clutches make you buy a matching slave also, anyway its good clutch for up 700 real 700 rwhp and its dual disc and I have zero chatter.... Just a couple thoughts. A remote bleeder line with help also coming off the slave can be the best way to cleanse out the lines adding fluid while draining. Tick performance is where I got mine.

silversleeper · 03-21-2018, 05:31 PM

One possibility: To get the harmonic balancer to break free somehow the engine crank must be held from rotating. In my teens I did bend my clutch friction plate doing something like this, putting in a prybar to hold the engine from turning into a slot in the clutch pressure plate. It isn't all that hard to bend that friction disc inside doing some hamfisted thing like that. They make a toothed piece to hold the flywheel to do it right. That's my guess. A disc only might fix it or might replace the pressure plate part too. Or yeah it simply had a low fluid or failure of the hyd clutch part at the same time.

frankwjr · 03-21-2018, 06:48 PM

nothin you did would have affected it....try this first..http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html won't hurt and will rule out most items...like you said it could just be a coincidence...which I hate!

what is the mileage? are you first owner? how hard have you hammered on it? be honest now! lol...good luck!

TheBlueBrick · 03-21-2018, 10:12 PM

Pedal feels normal. And silversleeper when we were trying to loosen and tighten the crank bolt a couple times I do remember pulling so hard the tires spun a little. I'm the second owner it has 52k miles and I do drive it a "little" hard. I have raced it and nitrous on the car for a short period of time last year. Maybe 2 bottles through. Clutch seemed fine since the nitrous back about a year ago.

frankwjr · 03-21-2018, 10:42 PM

prob slave cyl then...https://www.ebay.com/itm/Centric-303...xaAj~X&vxp=mtr
keep us updated OP!

03-21-2018, 03:42 PM	#1
TheBlueBrick Drives: 2011 2ss imperial blue metallic Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: St Louis MO Posts: 22	2011 SS M6 won't go into gear after cam swap Just got done doing the cam swap over the weekend and it was a success thanks to the diy. It Was my first time doin anything that big. (not that big to some I know) I pulled the car out the garage after finishing to turn it around to let run and change the oil. Seemed fine that I can remember. Went to take the car to get tuned a couple hours later and it won't go into gear. If I start the car up in gear with the clutch in the car starts goin forward. If i hold the gear shift forward trying to put it in gear the car moves forward also (even with the clutch in) With the engine off the car goes into all gears. I'm wondering if there is anything I could of did to cause this while doin the cam swap or just bad timing. Any help or Info about the situation is appreciated. I've tried searching but haven't found anything so I'm thinking it's just bad timing and something is wrong with the clutch setup.

03-21-2018, 03:52 PM	#2
Olddudesrule Resident nomad Drives: 2014 Summit White 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 1,765	Not a timing issue. Sounds like a clutch engagement issue. Might try bleeding the clutch first, but it sounds like it's not disengaging from the flywheel completely. No issues at all prior to the cam swap? I can't think of anything you'd do during a cam swap that should effect the clutch, but I'm just an old shadetree.....Good luck! __________________ Sold: 2007 Z06 2002 Viper GTS/ACR 2003 Z06 1965 FFR Cobra 2012 Nissan 370Z ADM LSA Stage II, Roto-Fab CAI, Kooks LTH/HFC's, Phastek CC, ported TB, Mishimoto radiator and oil cooler, BC Racing ER Series CO's, JPSS 32mm Black Magic rear bar, JPSS front inserts, R1 Concepts Premier slotted rotors/Goodrich SS lines, Schroth ASM harness, MGW flatstick, Brey-Krause HB, Tuned by NicD, at Cordes Performance Racing.

03-21-2018, 05:31 PM	#5
christianchevell old school chevy rodder Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,587 View My Garage	I recommend and many on here have opted to do as well a separate clutch fluid reservoir, I bought mine from gen5diy.com site, was mounted to my terminal tower for the positive under the hood and works good and helps me because I can keep the contamination out of the brake fluid. Its just a small Holden GT reservoir but it works and a big suction syringe helps keep the fluid good. A sticking pedal is not normal ever its disaster waiting to happen like a sticky shifter..With the age of your car if you have not inspected the slave and the most important throw out bearing support;( which BTW was made in plastic and is also one of the most common things changed when doing a clutch with a Monster clutch billet replacement as they can melt), you may want to look at it as something sounds as if its keeping your trans clutch engaged and the slave is the place to look IMO... good luck, I btw love and use my Monster lt1s clutch daily and its very good at feeling like stock and taking abuse with the stock slave...many if not most aftermarket clutches make you buy a matching slave also, anyway its good clutch for up 700 real 700 rwhp and its dual disc and I have zero chatter.... Just a couple thoughts. A remote bleeder line with help also coming off the slave can be the best way to cleanse out the lines adding fluid while draining. Tick performance is where I got mine. __________________ 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop

03-21-2018, 06:48 PM	#7
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	nothin you did would have affected it....try this first..http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html won't hurt and will rule out most items...like you said it could just be a coincidence...which I hate! what is the mileage? are you first owner? how hard have you hammered on it? be honest now! lol...good luck! __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

03-21-2018, 10:42 PM	#9
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	prob slave cyl then...https://www.ebay.com/itm/Centric-303...xaAj~X&vxp=mtr keep us updated OP! __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

03-21-2018, 04:24 PM	#3
TheBlueBrick Drives: 2011 2ss imperial blue metallic Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: St Louis MO Posts: 22	Didn't mean as in timing for the engine. I meant timing as in it went bad right after I got done. And there's been times over a year ago at the track I had the clutch sticking to the floor. But up until this point has been a daily driver and working fine.

03-21-2018, 05:10 PM	#4
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	Something is wrong in the clutch hydraulics. Does the pedal feel normal? Did the clutch hyd line get pinched during all this work? Have someone under the car with a light watching and listening what is happening when you push the clutch in. With everything off. Closely look at that hyd line end to end.

03-21-2018, 05:31 PM	#6
silversleeper Big Crow Drives: '13 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: California Posts: 1,489	One possibility: To get the harmonic balancer to break free somehow the engine crank must be held from rotating. In my teens I did bend my clutch friction plate doing something like this, putting in a prybar to hold the engine from turning into a slot in the clutch pressure plate. It isn't all that hard to bend that friction disc inside doing some hamfisted thing like that. They make a toothed piece to hold the flywheel to do it right. That's my guess. A disc only might fix it or might replace the pressure plate part too. Or yeah it simply had a low fluid or failure of the hyd clutch part at the same time.

03-21-2018, 10:12 PM	#8
TheBlueBrick Drives: 2011 2ss imperial blue metallic Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: St Louis MO Posts: 22	Pedal feels normal. And silversleeper when we were trying to loosen and tighten the crank bolt a couple times I do remember pulling so hard the tires spun a little. I'm the second owner it has 52k miles and I do drive it a "little" hard. I have raced it and nitrous on the car for a short period of time last year. Maybe 2 bottles through. Clutch seemed fine since the nitrous back about a year ago.