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View Poll Results: Horse Power at Crank
800 - 825 Horse Power 0 0%
826 - 850 Horse Power 1 16.67%
851 - 875 Horse Power 0 0%
876 - 900 Horse Power 0 0%
901 - 925 Horse Power 1 16.67%
926 - 950 Horse Power 1 16.67%
951 - 975 Horse Power 0 0%
976 - 1000 Horse Power 1 16.67%
1000+ Horse Power 1 16.67%
Good forbid - Engine Failure... 1 16.67%
Voters: 6. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 11-13-2021, 10:20 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicster View Post
Curious though... even if you did make 933whp, why the thread title reads Exceeded 1000whp?
I was told by many people here that I would not even make 800hp at the crank, also if I wanted to make any serious power I needed to run E-85.

I put it in the title as a jab to those who said I could not do it. If I corrected the belt slippage and fuel issue so I could hit my targeted rpm of 7,800 instead of 6,500. I am pretty sure I would be past 1,000whp, as we did not add any spark to what I have been running. When I could not run over 6,500 rpm I called it quits and came home.

Doubters will doubt and haters will hate... I am happy that I did everything to this engine (except the block machine work and porting the heads ( I did open the exhaust ports more)) I designed the cam (Comp. Cams ground it to my specks) and picked all the parts and assembled it with my own hands! I am happy with the engine and it has blown away my expectations, it is only my 2nd engine build and it was done in my living room. I know a lot of shop built engines do not run this well!
So, I am proud of what I have accomplished and my Little Engine that could!
[/QUOTE]

You have my admiration and respect buddy
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Old 12-06-2021, 01:16 AM   #86
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Impressive stuff man. What do you do for a living that you can rebuild an entire engine in your living room? Lol
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Old 12-06-2021, 09:45 PM   #87
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Hey Vic,
I have a similar indicator light on my dash, but I used an mini LED volt meter in parallel with the secondary pump. There is some voltage drop on the volt meter from the pump to my dash, but it was there from when I had my BAP so I used it.
It'll be on an upcoming video I think.
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Old 08-03-2022, 06:24 AM   #88
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Sure thing Vic. I sent it to the Gmail that I had last used for you.

As said in the email, I'm not sure why Holley would tell you not to use the Grn/Wht wire. It's the wire the FPCM uses to control the OEM fuel relay.

For those that don't know, The Grn/Wht wire is a timed circuit. It powers up for 2 seconds when you first turn the key on, then it goes in standby. When you crank the engine it powers again and will stay powered when the engine is running. This has advantages and disadvantages as one could figure out.
The 2 second time is adjustable in the tune using HP Tuners... FUEL SYSTEM>FUEL PUMP>PRIME TIME.
You might need the license for the FPCM to change but I cant remember.

The Grn/Wht wire is found in the bundle that connects to the FPCM under the passenger rear quarter interior panel.

Last edited by FasNuf; 08-03-2022 at 06:36 AM.
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Old 08-03-2022, 11:25 AM   #89
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The 2 second prime time is in the engine management section under fuel management I believe I have mine set for 6 seconds.
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Old 08-03-2022, 12:19 PM   #90
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I think it goes there in the trunk but I’ll have to look in the Manual when I get home tonight.
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Old 08-03-2022, 09:10 PM   #91
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Does the green/white wire run back to the trunk? Getting to the FSCM under the rear seat quarter panel is almost impossible for me with the roll bar installed.


The Grn/Wht wire goes from the ECM to the FPCM to control the fuel pump relay in the FPCM. The only wires in the truck fuse panel are power.

Go to pin 50 on the ECM X1 plug. That should be the Grn/Wht.

There are also other connectors between the ECM and FPCM you might be able to tap a little closer to your duals.

Of course disconnect your negative battery cable and let sit for a few before disconnecting.

I tried texting the info to you

Last edited by FasNuf; 08-03-2022 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 08-13-2022, 12:29 AM   #92
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Looks like a lot of work !
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Old 08-13-2022, 12:35 AM   #93
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Very nice buddy.
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Old 08-13-2022, 12:38 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicster View Post
LoL, Yes it was! Would have been easier with 2 people and a lift... But, I got to get it ready for the 427ci engine...
Bring it down! Then you can help me do mine

Got the McLeod in today. I was surprised the pedal was as hard to push as it was.
Feels like 30% more.
The driveshaft loop you recommended worked and fit great once I fixed the fact the drive coupler bolt was smacking the hell out of it.
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Old 08-13-2022, 01:06 AM   #95
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Been good. Just fixing to start my rebuild. But yeah you have been a busy bee.
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Old 08-13-2022, 10:47 AM   #96
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Yeah we'll see I'll definitely try to. I just get so caught up I forget to take pictures. lol
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Old 08-21-2022, 07:46 PM   #97
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Hey Vic,

Are you going to run E85?

It looks like you're running a mechanical regulator with a base setting of 44psi.
Looks to be 85# injectors.

I took a quick look but I don't know anything about your injector data so I can't help much. It's probably the most important thing to get right before attempting to tune.

Last edited by FasNuf; 08-21-2022 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 08-21-2022, 09:05 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicster View Post
Hey Mark,
No e85, 92 octane with boostane. Yes 44psi with 85# injectors, triple checked all injector data it is correct.

Thank you for you time!
It looked fine to me but if you find your injector duty cycle at WOT is getting too high, you'll need to probably go to 58 psi.

I also see you turned off your Long Term Fuel Trims. I've been thinking about doing the same. It can create problems when in Power Enrichment.

Thanks Vic, glad to help out.
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