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Old 03-03-2009, 08:32 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmbarberoilman View Post
I sell synthetic lubes and these days you can run synthetic right from the factory. It is still a good idea to break it in carefully at least 500 to 1000 miles to be sure. The ring and engine technology these days if far supior to years ago. With a GOOD synthetic you will not really have any wear to speak of. Use the cheap stuff from the factory and move on to the best you can find on the market. The Vet guys pick up about 3 to 4 MPG switching to my favorite lubes. Look into it for better protection, longevity, mileage and oif course more HP. If you rebuild an engine it matters on how much cross hatch you put in the cylinders. You think any Nascar or Pro Stock guys break in an engine for 5000 before they hammer it? Think about it.
Whats your thoughts on z-max ? is it worth the money or just change the oil every 3000
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:35 PM   #30
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Ya take a 0 off that. Brakes will be more important...keep off them for 250 miles.
That could cause alot of wrecks my friend


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Old 03-03-2009, 08:41 PM   #31
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i dont want to start an oil brand war here BUT. i just saw a commercial on Speed channel for Royal Purple break in oil.They said it has higher Zinc levels (and some others as well) to help break in a motor.i believe they have it for rear ends as well.
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:42 PM   #32
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A 500 mile break in should be fine. When I got my R8, the dealer advised me to stay under 5000 RPM's for the first 500 miles and then after 500 to not go above 7500 RPM's until I hit the 750 mile point. Lets just say I drove in circles until I passed those mile markers lol. It was well worth it to break it in as directed. The exhaust note got increasingly louder with time as well.
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:55 PM   #33
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Whats your thoughts on z-max ? is it worth the money or just change the oil every 3000
Zmax is snake oil of the worst kind. Tests have been done to show it causes increased wear, instead of preventing it. If you buy a high quality oil to begin with, it's going to have all the additives you need already.
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:02 PM   #34
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Zmax is snake oil of the worst kind. Tests have been done to show it causes increased wear, instead of preventing it. If you buy a high quality oil to begin with, it's going to have all the additives you need already.
A Cobra is a snake......was that a Shelby reference since he recommends/promotes it? j/k
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:13 PM   #35
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Zmax is snake oil of the worst kind. Tests have been done to show it causes increased wear, instead of preventing it. If you buy a high quality oil to begin with, it's going to have all the additives you need already.
Yea thats what I kind of figured, I've always just changed it every 3000, trucks got 145,000 the camaro only 15,000. Thanks
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Old 03-04-2009, 05:38 AM   #36
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If you read there is no need to stay off the brakes. You do need to thermal cycle them though. You can find many many pad bedding procedures online. Brembo has one on this site IIRC.
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Old 03-04-2009, 05:41 AM   #37
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Ya take a 0 off that. Brakes will be more important...keep off them for 250 miles.
Dang, How do you stop the car then, Open the door and drag your feet????


There are about 5 million suggestions you will get for breaking in your car, go by the owners manual... and as for oil changes go with what GM recommends... They designed and built the things. as long as you go with what is in their service intervals book they you will be fine. (but use the severe service intrevals for best protection)
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Old 03-04-2009, 06:31 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by mmbarberoilman View Post
I sell synthetic lubes and these days you can run synthetic right from the factory. It is still a good idea to break it in carefully at least 500 to 1000 miles to be sure. The ring and engine technology these days if far supior to years ago. With a GOOD synthetic you will not really have any wear to speak of. Use the cheap stuff from the factory and move on to the best you can find on the market. The Vet guys pick up about 3 to 4 MPG switching to my favorite lubes. Look into it for better protection, longevity, mileage and oif course more HP. If you rebuild an engine it matters on how much cross hatch you put in the cylinders. You think any Nascar or Pro Stock guys break in an engine for 5000 before they hammer it? Think about it.
racing engines are completely different.They aren't worried about them lasting for 100K miles or more.
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Old 03-04-2009, 10:51 AM   #39
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I'll be doing the "Rapid Break-in Procedure". Because the piston rings need cylinder pressure to seal, engine loading to a moderate RPM is essential. You only have a few minutes of operation before the cylinder honing grooves get worn smooth. Get the engine warm and run it up through the gears at half throttle. Let the engine cool to less than 100 degrees F and you are done with the break-in. This run and cool cycle will also break-in the rear gears. Always avoid hard braking for the first few stops.
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Old 03-04-2009, 11:00 AM   #40
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I'll be doing the "Rapid Break-in Procedure". Because the piston rings need cylinder pressure to seal, engine loading to a moderate RPM is essential. You only have a few minutes of operation before the cylinder honing grooves get worn smooth. Get the engine warm and run it up through the gears at half throttle. Let the engine cool to less than 100 degrees F and you are done with the break-in. This run and cool cycle will also break-in the rear gears. Always avoid hard braking for the first few stops.
I have never bought a car with 0 run time on the motor or 0 miles on it, even both Saturn Skys I have ordered had 3-4 miles on them... Your car will have a few miles on it by the time you get it, I bet the guy that loads it on the hauler will probably let it run for more than a few minutes so by the time you get it your method isn't necessary... Have you never thought about that?

Like I said you wil get so many different methods of breaking in a new car it is mind boggling. and every one thinks they are correct... BUT if you will read the break in procedure lined out by most every manufacturer the are really close to the same....
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Old 03-04-2009, 11:16 AM   #41
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I don't know why Blur didn't chime in, but in a old thread he recommended this method. http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
+1 get them rings seated quickly !
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Old 03-04-2009, 12:26 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by mmbarberoilman View Post
I sell synthetic lubes and these days you can run synthetic right from the factory. It is still a good idea to break it in carefully at least 500 to 1000 miles to be sure. The ring and engine technology these days if far supior to years ago. With a GOOD synthetic you will not really have any wear to speak of. Use the cheap stuff from the factory and move on to the best you can find on the market. The Vet guys pick up about 3 to 4 MPG switching to my favorite lubes. Look into it for better protection, longevity, mileage and oif course more HP. If you rebuild an engine it matters on how much cross hatch you put in the cylinders. You think any Nascar or Pro Stock guys break in an engine for 5000 before they hammer it? Think about it.
...and no mention of Amsoil........I'm proud of you
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