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Old 03-09-2018, 07:03 AM   #15
JANNETTYRACING

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianw36 View Post
What part number metco do you use?
The one with the check valve for twist in oil cap, but they are on backorder currently.

Ted.
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Old 03-09-2018, 07:07 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
With proper fuel supply and tuning the engine can live a long happy life at 600 RWHP.

The stock fuel system is capped out around 580 RWHP, those who push the limits of the fuel system are learning the hard way.

Ted.
Ted,
Would you say a FI LT1 @ or over 600RWHP should have no issues doing a 1/2 mile long pull?

Thanks,
Joe

*edited from mile to what I meant to say 1/2 mile pull.
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Last edited by Joe's_cool_1le; 03-09-2018 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 03-09-2018, 09:59 AM   #17
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We have put 20,000 miles of PURE abuse on our test mule.

(she got the blower at 500 miles)

And has spent weeks at the road course, the drag strip, and now over 1000 dyno pulls.



Sadly, about 2 weeks ago, we did finally have the front crank seal "fold over"
And cause it to leak. So yes it can happen, however it was an induced failure... we were REALLLLLLLLLY leaning on the car, doing an intercooler stress test with a 18 second loaded dyno pull. (with nearly no airflow on the intercooler)

Chances are she detonated, coughed, and reversed the seal.

It took just about 2hrs to replace the seal, and we kept on testing.
Has been fine since then, (we replaced with another stock seal)
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Old 03-09-2018, 10:26 AM   #18
JANNETTYRACING

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe's_cool_1le View Post
Ted,
Would you say a FI LT1 @ or over 600RWHP should have no issues doing a 1/2 mile long pull?

Thanks,
Joe

*edited from mile to what I meant to say 1/2 mile pull.
That is a loaded question.

It depends on Octane, IAT rise rate, and how the car was tuned.

If everything is correct I see no issues with that.

If any of those are not in check I say NO.

Ted.
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Old 03-09-2018, 11:21 AM   #19
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I agree TOTALLY
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Old 03-09-2018, 11:34 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
The one with the check valve for twist in oil cap, but they are on backorder currently.

Ted.
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Old 03-09-2018, 03:35 PM   #21
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Not much reassurance here.

But this is good info. Thank you guys. I like Ted's idea of a front seal replacement if I do the ECS and an oil cap with a check valve. I do already have a Mishimoto Catch Can, would I need to swap that one out for another one?

On the other hand I assume the ZL1 has no such problems and my bonus just came in at 100% So....
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Old 03-11-2018, 04:55 AM   #22
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Maybe overkill but I have 2 sources for crankcase venting.

1. Mightymouse vented Oil catch can &
2. Metco Valve cover breather (has 1 way check valve and replaces oil cap)
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Old 03-11-2018, 10:34 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dysan911 View Post
Maybe overkill but I have 2 sources for crankcase venting.

1. Mightymouse vented Oil catch can &
2. Metco Valve cover breather (has 1 way check valve and replaces oil cap)
Overkill sounds like a good idea. Hmmm, I wonder if the Mishimoto catch can is vented, they don't mention it.
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Old 03-12-2018, 06:29 AM   #24
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Quote:
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Overkill sounds like a good idea. Hmmm, I wonder if the Mishimoto catch can is vented, they don't mention it.
It's not the best, but it was all that was available when I got my car and I added mine when I first got the Maggie and headers. I've put probably 15-17k miles on it in total with a blower, 7-8k of which came after cam, e85, fuel system and boost upgrades. Literally drove it on e85 (really e60) all summer and fall...so far so good.
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:52 PM   #25
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You should never have pressure present with the proper system, and Venting is not used in ANY form of Professional racing any longer aside from Top Fuel or T/A where most of the oil is pushed out in one run and the engine is rebuilt each run.


If you vent, your defeating some of the most critical functions of a crankcase evacuation system. Only those stuck in the technology of decades ago vent. You must always pull suction on the crankcase for a number of reasons. They are as follows:


Removing the constantly entering as blow-by combustion byproducts that cause the wear to the engines internal parts.


Aid in piston ring stability and preventing "ring flutter". Today's engines all come with low tension piston rings from the factory, and these depend on pressure above, and suction below to seal properly. When you vent your allowing pressure to build and force out a breather, etc. Bad anyway you look at it and why NO Professional racing does this anymore.


With GDI engines, there is several times the amount of raw fuel pushed past the piston rings and this dilutes your engine oil reducing its ability to protect if venting. You must actually suck out these at all times the engine is running. Something venting defeats.


Reducing power robbing parasitic loss from the pistons fighting this pressure on the downstroke. Pulling suction at all times, never allowing pressure to build in the first place is by far better in every way.


Now, a belt driven vacuum pump is by far your best solution, but as these will not last long on the street before needing to replace vanes, seals, and bearings, that is not practical for most. So we designed our E2-x and E2-x Ultra systems to emulate the vacuum pump and still provide full time evacuation suction. We use 2 separate evacuation suction sources and special checkvalves to prevent any boost from back flowing into the crankcase. The checkvalves automatically default to use the strongest suction source available no matter if in boost or not avoiding engine seal issues right from the start. We also address the clean/fresh side of the PCV system with our billet CSS. This also acts as a fail safe in the event you would break or pinch a ringland and excessive blow-by occurs by simply allowing that pressure to release into the main air filter with NO restrictions of a oneway valve. And as it has its own internal coalescing chamber it traps most of that oil not allowing it to enter the intake air charge.


Think about this. Venting outdated technology from the early 1900's and not used today by any Professionals, or technology designed just for your FI application emulating what all Professional race teams use today.


Questions? Read this a few times and ask. We have Tech Support available to help all whether you purchase from us or not.


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Old 03-12-2018, 09:02 PM   #26
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Honestly!. I think every time the topic comes up I see this exact same post.

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Old 03-13-2018, 01:43 PM   #27
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I run Dual Elite cans on personal projects with great results.
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:59 PM   #28
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Quote:
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I run Dual Elite cans on personal projects with great results.

Hopefully it's not boosted.

Me personally am not a fan of sealed catch can's on a boosted car and I think that venturi effect of running a 3rd hose to the intake side of the procharger is a gimmick and doesn't provide enough vacuum. It sounds cool but how clogged up does your K&N filter have to be to provide adequate enough vacuum to the catch can to retain a good enough suction to efficiently let a boosted car vent?
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