01-03-2015, 12:56 PM | #15 |
Drives: 14 1SS Camaro 1LE, NPP, Recaros Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 819
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1st thing to do is decide what class you want to run in. This will determine what you can do to your car if anything. One small change can move you up a class where you won't ever have a chance of being competitive. Then as others have said, start shooting paypal payments for tires, brakes, event fees, hotels, gas, unexpected mechanical failures and lots of long hours between events in the garage. Also get ready to buy a dually, trailer and probably a storage lease to store all the crap between events. You'll need 3 sets of wheels/tires, one for rain, two for dry. Too expensive to flat a tire and not be able to finish the weekend.
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01-03-2015, 01:23 PM | #16 | |
Drives: 06 Z06 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: NorCal
Posts: 44
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Quote:
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01-03-2015, 01:40 PM | #17 |
Drives: 14 1SS Camaro 1LE, NPP, Recaros Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 819
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yep, the dollars verse smiles is steep, but there are few other adventures that give you that sensation. Why everyone else thinks we are crazy/stupid or both.
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01-03-2015, 04:06 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 800
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So i should run open lapping/amateur with an instructor and not mod/change a thing?? I guarantee im gonna get on it hard and melt the brakes or a motor. The s/c needs to go right?
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2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad
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01-03-2015, 05:08 PM | #19 |
Drives: 2022 SS 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,086
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The stock brake pads are surprisingly good, just make sure you've got plenty of thickness. Dot 4 fluid and a fresh synthetic oil (5W-50 is what I like) and change the oil right after the event, you'll probably be fine. Maybe add an oil cooler to be safe.
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Sold but not forgotten! Pedders Supercar Coilovers, 32mm rear sway bar,bushings; APR wing and splitter
Forged 416 road course stroker. 514 RWHP, 497 RW Ft-Lb 1 Camaro, 75 Vipers: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=393697 Buttonwillow Raceway: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389086 |
01-03-2015, 06:35 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 800
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if i remember correctly the stock oil cooler is part of the rad right? do you mean a seperate heat exchanger just for oil? JDP was gonna hook me up with a bigger rad but im not sure if its got the oil compartment too or?
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2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad
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01-03-2015, 07:09 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2022 SS 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,086
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I'm not sure either. Last track day I ran my coolant was about 205 F but my oil would hit 290 F after just a few laps and I had to back off. My car had a 1LE oil cooler which is a coolant to oil type. Now I'm adding two air to oil coolers and bypassing the coolant to oil cooler. So now my radiator doesn't cool the oil at alll, which should keep the coolant even cooler. I'm keeping my radiator stock for now. I'm no expert but that is what I'm doing. X25 had a nice write up on his oil cooler set up, you may want to look at that thread
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Sold but not forgotten! Pedders Supercar Coilovers, 32mm rear sway bar,bushings; APR wing and splitter
Forged 416 road course stroker. 514 RWHP, 497 RW Ft-Lb 1 Camaro, 75 Vipers: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=393697 Buttonwillow Raceway: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389086 Last edited by Orange Crush 1LE; 01-03-2015 at 07:23 PM. |
01-03-2015, 08:38 PM | #22 |
In The Circle
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SSRS IOM M6 Join Date: May 2009
Location: Abbotsford BC Canada
Posts: 11,292
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You don't need that stuff to get started on the road course, get out to your local track and participate in some HPDE day's. Find yourself a good instructor and go from there.
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01-03-2015, 08:44 PM | #23 |
Drives: 2022 SS 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,086
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He's supercharged, otherwise I would agree
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Sold but not forgotten! Pedders Supercar Coilovers, 32mm rear sway bar,bushings; APR wing and splitter
Forged 416 road course stroker. 514 RWHP, 497 RW Ft-Lb 1 Camaro, 75 Vipers: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=393697 Buttonwillow Raceway: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389086 |
01-03-2015, 10:10 PM | #24 | |
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#1 mod to go faster is YOU! Spend that mod money on training and instruction hours and you'll go faster than any of the mods you are looking at. Guaranteed...
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Todd in Vancouver
'14 ZL1 Camaro '67 Camaro SS Pro-tour in process How hard can it be... Check out my other build http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/9...ject-Obsession Last edited by Todd in Vancouver; 01-21-2015 at 02:07 AM. |
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01-03-2015, 11:21 PM | #25 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 800
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yea i know youre all right . the modding bug always hits this time of year...i just wish it wasnt winter in canada so i could actually drive lol...
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2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad
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01-04-2015, 06:26 AM | #26 | |
Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 3,056
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Quote:
Here's my oil cooler how-to: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=381050
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'16 Corvette C7 Z51 1LT (Build Thread)
'14 AGM 1SS 1LE [COTW 11/17/14] (Build Thread) (SOLD) '13 Mazda MX-5 Club (Build Thread) '17 RAM 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Night Edition '15 Nissan Rogue S AWD |
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01-21-2015, 01:40 AM | #27 |
Negative Camber Junkie
Drives: 2010 1SS LS3/6MN ABM 1 of 23 Join Date: May 2009
Location: ChiTown, IL
Posts: 1,824
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"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same. Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different. I can't wait for my next Track fix. DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!! |
01-21-2015, 02:18 AM | #28 |
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Any updates Forklord?
Here is what I've done to prep for this season 1- ordered new tires- they will be a version of the PSS 2- got my alignment numbers ready to give to my shop 3-'ordered my tow hooks from ZL Addons (on the forum here) 4 - got new braided steel brake lines and will flush with Dot 4 5- read about tires and racing, reading tire temps and what they mean and how they relate to handling and alignment Then I'm set to go. All my fluids are changed, engine, trans and diff. Brakes coming I'll need to explore more oil cooling later for track days but I feel the above will launch me better into AuoX #6 is the BIGGY! I've signed up for 3 day driver traing to start my SCCA licensing requirements.The best mod money you can spend is on YOU. Get some seat time with a proper instructor and itll knockoff more time than modding ever will. S/C is fine as long as its not creating tons of Boost = Heat so turn it down amd work on driving. Then brakes and and suspension and then and only then more power. I can garauntee that 90% of the guys cant handle the stock vehicle well and the last thing they need is more power. It'll just get you into a situation you are not ready to deal with. Post some pics of your racing season, we all want to follow along and see how you do.,
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Todd in Vancouver
'14 ZL1 Camaro '67 Camaro SS Pro-tour in process How hard can it be... Check out my other build http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/9...ject-Obsession |
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