The 2011+ Mustang Thread

[C FTPRNT]

I love my SS I also love the Mustang and the Challenger. Its WIN WIN WIN as far as I can see.

[ViperTomcat]

Originally Posted by BlackieRay

None of this is surprising. I'm completely unimpressed with the V-tec Mustang. Despite the hype, the GT is still not a serious competitor for the SS. Ford is going to have to do more than copy Honda technology and put a new coat of paint on the old mod motor. At least it beats that old slug they were pawning off on everyone last year.

This post is so completely full of fail that I'm surprised it hasnt shot itself.

You dont know anything at all about the new Mustang GT or about the Camaro for that matter, based on the 'facts' you puked out into this post.

Shall I make a post detailing everywhere where you're wrong or just leave it at..

You are wrong.

your choice.

[assasinator]

Originally Posted by Doc

It always cracks me up to see people bragging about their choice of car model AFTER they've poured thousands into modifying their car as though the reason they're "walking all over brand xxx car" is because of their model car. Once you start boosting, charging, etc. it has nothing to do with the body style or model. At that point it's money and mods versus money and mods.

Like one poster said there's always that stupid Honda Accord in town that can rip everyone to shreds because the owner put the money and mods in it to get it to that point. Does that make the Honda Accord the best car for performance? No; has nothing to do with it being a Honda Accord anymore; it's money and mods.

The drivers I have respect for are the ones that can line up in identical cars next to you and beat you. To me driver skill is the most impressive "performance mod" and the one I respect the most.

man your avatar is incredible. THATS a race car.

[|BLACKSS|]

03-04 cobras were supercharged and bad ass im talking about the GT and i dont want to get in an arguement about which american muscle car is better. Its not that i dont like mustangs i just prefer the camaro... in the past i just couldnt stand it when im in traffic and some guy in a 4.6 gt with 265-300rwhp is just reving his car up and really has it in his head that the base V8 mustang which is the GT is that fastest car on the road. Cobras and Shelbys are a whole different price range and car(FORCED INDUCTION)

[assasinator]

you guys know how fun its gonna be for ourSRT-8 challengers, 2011 gt's and 2010 camaro's to line up. i mean its intimidation on both sides. both cars mean ****ing business.


im the sort who likes to run against a car that's on a faster dial in. i mean realistically i have out RT'd countless cars that are faster. i always feel like i can beat a car thats within .4 faster than mine. by beating, i mean the guy who gets the WIN light. trying to get as close to the redlight as possible. thats the stress and excitement of REAL racing, not this loser internet racing.


Win lights fellas. putten 'em on the trailer. thats what matters. i would look at a guy who lost on the track but said, " my car is faster", like he is from Idiotville. losing but being faster should make a man hide his face.

[|BLACKSS|]

why do that always use the 2SS/RS instead of the 1SS the 1SS weighs almost 400 lbs lighter

[ViperTomcat]

Originally Posted by |BLACKSS|

why do that always use the 2SS/RS instead of the 1SS the 1SS weighs almost 400 lbs lighter

Um...no.

No, no...and no.

The difference between the 1SS and 2SS is maybe..maybe..50 pounds, on the extreme upper scale.

They use the 2SS/RS because they usually use a Premium Mustang GT, and are comparing the same trim levels.

[SwiftCat]

Originally Posted by HIGHOCTANE

Been awhile since I looked at the KB site,I see what you are talking about...those numbers are of course FlyWheel #'s. But also just because a kit is capable of making numbers on a "completely stock engine" doesn't mean the engine and driveline will last. The range is because you can change pullies and change the boost...ie run a big pulley make lower boost therefore less power....or run a smaller pulley,make more boost and more power.
Read all the way through on the site...nothing against KB but their site can get a little confusing for some when they start reading the ramble.
At 16psi they bent all 8 rods...even at 14psi they were running C16...again regardless of the big print I still say you won't make even 1000 FWHP(~850RWHP) reliably by just bolting on a KB kit...you can probalby make it ...but I doubt it will last. Also when they say stock with a KB kit even they are including add ons...their 115mm TB,2 BAPS ect...those are add ons to their kits..but that still doesn't help the piston,rods or the driveline live. If you want to make that kind of power reliably you need a purpose built short block with lower comp and at a min forged pistons and forged or billet rods..and that still doesn't adress the rest of the driveline. For instance I doubt the stock clutch will live long behind that power...if you are actually using it...then there is the rear axles..and everything in between...it goes on and on...and gets very expensive very quick to make big useable power..now if all you want it a big dyno number doing it "all stock" might be fine.

HP POTENTIAL Twin Screw superchargers MUST RELY ON LARGE FREE FLOWING INLET SYSTEM TO PRODUCE MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE. The 2.8, 3.6LC and 4.2LC Kits all use a huge air guzzling 4.5” filter, 4.5” MAF meter and 4.5”x4’ long Ram Air Pipe feeding the MAMMOTH™ inlet manifold (accepts up to 115mm throttle body). Compare that to the competition. Kenne Bell “0” restriction - short runner discharge manifold, intercooler and heat exchanger are designed to support 1000+HP on a 100% stock motor. Forged pistons and rods are necessary at some point but the kit components including the 2.8L will support it, so there’s no upgrading of basic components necessary with the 2.8, 3.6 or 4.2 kits. Just upgrade the stock 90mm throttle body to our 115mm. See Tech Tips for dyno tests. It fits the oversized Kenne Bell MAMMOTH™ inlet manifold and 4.5” inlet system

Ah, ok...point taken. I'm getting an education here. Lastly (and I'm sorry for hijacking the thread), I'll ask one final question. Would it be ok in regard to longetivity to run a KB at a lower PSI w/out messing with the internals?
Thanks in advance,
Swifty

[DeathChill]

Originally Posted by ViperTomcat

Um...no.

No, no...and no.

The difference between the 1SS and 2SS is maybe..maybe..50 pounds, on the extreme upper scale.

They use the 2SS/RS because they usually use a Premium Mustang GT, and are comparing the same trim levels.

Agreed, except this time they didn't use a Premium GT; I wonder why.

I am also curious to see other magazines comparisons, any word when those will be out?

[DGthe3]

Originally Posted by |BLACKSS|

why do that always use the 2SS/RS instead of the 1SS the 1SS weighs almost 400 lbs lighter

Did you add an extra 0? The RS package adds practically no weight to an SS, its probably within 5 lbs. And the only major weight difference between a 1SS and 2SS will be the seats. Heated leather seats won't add 200 lbs a piece over cloth. Possibly 20, but not 200. Beyond those seats, the differences are down to electronics which might be another 5 lbs.

[2SSARMY]

So much hype for that lol

[2SSARMY]

Originally Posted by Doc

It always cracks me up to see people bragging about their choice of car model AFTER they've poured thousands into modifying their car as though the reason they're "walking all over brand xxx car" is because of their model car. Once you start boosting, charging, etc. it has nothing to do with the body style or model. At that point it's money and mods versus money and mods.

Has a lot to do with the engine.... The L99/LS3 have a lot of mod potential.

[HIGHOCTANE]

Originally Posted by SwiftCat

Ah, ok...point taken. I'm getting an education here. Lastly (and I'm sorry for hijacking the thread), I'll ask one final question. Would it be ok in regard to longetivity to run a KB at a lower PSI w/out messing with the internals?
Thanks in advance,
Swifty

I am by no means and LS3 expert but I think that the consensus is that 600 RWHP and below is pretty safe on the stock internals...someone correct me if I am wrong on the power level....so yes...you can run a blower on the stock motor and make alot more power than stock pretty reliably....but there are no guarantees....and depending on how you drive the driveline components might be fine at 600 or you might break something with stock power..
But even at "safe" power levels,any power level for that matter... you need to have a good tune....that goes for any engine...not even a high dollar billet rodded set up is going to live if the tune(fuel and timing) are not right.
Do some searches here in the FI section and I am sure you can get a good idea of what can be done on the stock motor safely and who is trusted to do a good safe tune...safe doesn't always make the most power...get power greedy and bad things can happen...
If I were a guy who isn't used to big power I would pace yourself...if you get a blower...start out slow...heck even 450-475 RWHP will make you giggle compared to stock...then more power,up to ~600 is just a pulley change and tune adjustment away..
Another benefit of FI is..it is only stressing the engine more than stock when you are in boost...just cruising around..it isn't doing anything really.

[SwiftCat]

Originally Posted by HIGHOCTANE

I am by no means and LS3 expert but I think that the consensus is that 600 RWHP and below is pretty safe on the stock internals...someone correct me if I am wrong on the power level....so yes...you can run a blower on the stock motor and make alot more power than stock pretty reliably....but there are no guarantees....and depending on how you drive the driveline components might be fine at 600 or you might break something with stock power..
But even at "safe" power levels you need to have a good tune....that goes for any engine...not even a high dollar billet rodded set up is going to live if the tune(fuel and timing) are not right.
Do some searches here in the FI section and I am sure you can get a good idea of what can be done on the stock motor safely and who is trusted to do a good safe tune...safe doesn't always make the most power...get power greedy and bad things can happen...
If I were a guy who isn't used to big power I would pace yourself...if you get a blower...start out slow...heck even 450-475 RWHP will make you giggle compared to stock...then more power,up to ~600 is just a pulley change and tune adjustment away..

Cool...thanks for your $.02