Help me build.....please

[SuperChuck]

So maybe a few of you know but I've been all over inferno_oranges' lifter fail thread. And suffering from the same fate looks like I could be doing a rebuild soon
( starting end of May). My mechanic said judging by the pics he's seen I should plan to replace the engine. If that is the case or really just replacing cam I'm thinking if I'm spending might as well really get a upgrade.

Not thinking of anything too crazy. I only had GPI SS1 VVT cam,Flowmaster super 10's, BTR headers, with res and cat delete. I was dyno'd at 426 HP. I'm only shooting for 500 HP this go. Was wondering if anyone had any long or short blocks they recommend. I was checking into a longblock from blueprint. With possibly a BTR stage 2 cam and stall. Borla ATTAK cat back. Has anyone had a blueprint ? Does the cam it comes with sound great? I have no clue as far as a shortblock. I'm guessing still a blueprint just haven't been paying too much attention to them since I'm not sure yet what will be saved off my old engine.

Guess my last part is would or have you guys bought a used junkyard engine? Are there any reputable online sights to buy used engines? Super sorry if this is just annoying or stupid as **** to you guys. This is my first go around with any real car. And this has lasted me 2 years. And cleary not to mechanically savvy. Thanks to all who could help and decently with a link or two.

[Greenhornet2]

These are tough questions. If you can build yourself the cheapest way is to pull it all apart, i highly doubt you need a block and likely don't need boring or pistons or rods or a crank. If anything just new bearings, rings a hone, new cam, lifters, springs, push rods, oil pump, timing chain, trunion kit. CHE or btr V2 my top choices. Did you lose oil pressure? If not, and i were you i would personally just roll the dice and put a new cam and lifters, valvetrain parts in. get a strong magnet and pull any metal pieces out of the pan, that's the cheapest route. Wanting just 500whp stock bottom end will handle that no problem so no need for an aftermarket block. If you really feel you need a block i would just get a stock as you can cheap as you can ls3 short block and use your heads. Melling oil pump if you wish, cam of choice, same list as the rebuild essentially just minutes the honing and bearings.

[SuperChuck]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

These are tough questions. If you can build yourself the cheapest way is to pull it all apart, i highly doubt you need a block and likely don't need boring or pistons or rods or a crank. If anything just new bearings, rings a hone, new cam, lifters, springs, push rods, oil pump, timing chain, trunion kit. CHE or btr V2 my top choices. Did you lose oil pressure? If not, and i were you i would personally just roll the dice and put a new cam and lifters, valvetrain parts in. get a strong magnet and pull any metal pieces out of the pan, that's the cheapest route. Wanting just 500whp stock bottom end will handle that no problem so no need for an aftermarket block. If you really feel you need a block i would just get a stock as you can cheap as you can ls3 short block and use your heads. Melling oil pump if you wish, cam of choice, same list as the rebuild essentially just minutes the honing and bearings.

Hornet thanks man you're the best. I'm definitely hoping for the the roll the dice method. I am not inclined enough to even think of doing this myself. I have a local guy and car club buddy that's going to do it for me. He's not trying to screw me over just preparing me for the worse case I believe. No there was never any low oil pressure or anything terrible other than the lifter tap/clicking. I did drive it for roughly 50 miles after I noticed the noise. I'm just waiting to see the damage. So I do know BTR but I'm sorry I do not know CHE(from your recommended picks)

[Greenhornet2]

Just google ls3 CHE trunion kit it will pop up. It's what i used. If you drove it like that you may need bearings and to flush out the oil passages to get any metal out. It's hard to know without seeing everything. The problem comes when you need a full rebuild, it's time consuming so the labor can put the price amount equal, or even higher than a shortblock replacement since it's more of just an engine swap and no machine shop costs unless you need to machine the heads. If you're paying someone its a tough call you'll have to see what they want to charge for rebuild vs replace with sourcing the short block.

[christianchevell]

By your pics you drug a roller to death, using just any oil on aftermarket cams not so good...… It has happened to stock cams and that's the truth though. SO you sent shrapnel through it just a little but undoubtedly trashed the cam and hurt the bearing s some. Stock engine cannot be overbored on honed .020 so its in the shape of what its lie when torn down as far as the bearings. The sleeves are cast in our blocks are a throw away block basically and about 1400$ for a stock bear block. Think that's bad? A ls7 can only be over honed .005 basically a refresh for a new set of pistons and that's it... A real disappointing fact why no one buys a used ls7 and the price is not worth it, they would need machining to fit aftermarket sleeves in and none hardly ever refits a ls3 with new sleeves its just stupid spendy…

You will need new lifter baskets, new cam and all the goodies, your a l99 so its has a higher volume pump but a good swich to a ls3/7 style dogbane chain dampener is smart as a iwis style chain never broke in vette racing single roller …. And a good time to upgrade to bushings on the rockers. I use br30 to break in the engine with Driven racing oil even for just a cam swap I also use 8620 core. You fairly close to GPI you may just want them to do the work as its always easier to drop the cradle to do major work....

And theres lots to talk to a mechanic about. making a mistake its not really a option, because a roller lifter does way down the road if not set with the right preload enable it to be way over tight and eat a cam way down the road while still sounding just a little loud so setting the preload right is crucial and requires math 1.7 ratio rockers time the thread pitch which is like .047 so 1! turn down from zero lash is too much.....

1.7x.047=.079 which is beyond the lash recommended for a ls7 with 1.8 rockers and a higher 7k rev limit which its preload is .070, and more over what I could read up on more in the golden range of .045 to .060 for not making too much noise or being overlashed for a ls3 with stock rockers...

and of course aftermarket lifters change the preload they require and theres only so much play you can deal with in plunger free travel inside of the lifter so most aim for no more than around .070 with a ls3 engine if they are using stock rockers even if they are revving it higher..hell most cams and springs are only tested to 7k..... And then of course the more preload the more the typewriter noise..I know I listen to mine daily and its tight, I use a aftermarket shift light and try to avoid mechanical overrevs downshifting hard. My bare block I had built by SAG performance also known as custom engine supply they used to sell on Ebay they are in Angola Indiana , shipping was free, but for a forged short block its 5k..... Sure you can find stock long blocks complete for around 7k with the everything already in them..... My tuner Tommy Wong had transplanted lots of ASA cammed ones into lots of varied rides for people.

Basically its all about what you have money for, and doing it right. Guys in the beginning here were so desperately stupid..they blamed cams which cams can go bad and have a bad core...but not like when they over tightened the preload to twice the amount because they used no math just simply thinking they turn the nut and that's what it equals to in movement of the rockers preload.... so 1 1/2 turns equals disaster down the road...but of course it still turns over and runs well its a roller...…….

Just things I learned over time on here, I am old and I am smart enough after doing engines of my own for decades not to just do everything myself without a ton of research and help and a friggin book and all the right tools.... And well for me failures not option, my springs need changed out at 25k intervals due to the high lift or risk is they can break one.... Any way some places online are ali out there so do some research. You most likely will not get to 500 rwhp unless you go GPI max package with small bore ls7 heads and a aggressive cam. Thompson makes engines online, lots of places make engines. Livernois, Lingenfelter, etc etc A nice stroker will net you lots of more low end torque that will really matter more as in many do a 416, so good luck to you and read up, you need to rely on yourself and the best help you can get. And as in everything money matters... And if you had a cam lobe going bad or overly tight preload, a bad roller, or lifter or bad break in...…… well that's to be guessed at tearing it down. And if want to learn ….well that's up to you, many just believe myths of BS... and don't research and think its a Roller so it does not have to break in..... SO why do the best shops like say TSP force you to use br30 break in oil?

[Greenhornet2]

Chuck, the information above about preload and turning the nut and what not doesn't apply to our cars you can disregard it. Our pedestal mounted rockers are torqued to spec with the valve closed, preload is set with push rod length. Usually 7.4" most builders already know what length to use with what cam but they do sell a tool to measure to see what you need. Your builder will be doing all that though, not you.

[SuperChuck]

Christian holy hell what an incredible read. The most amazing part to me was about using basic oil on aftermarket cam. I haven't said anything about oil type or oil change schedule or routine anywhere. That was so mind blowing to me like when a magician pulls your card from a stack of cards. I was really thankful and sad at the same time. I was hoping to get a reason this fail happened before I get my new set up all rolling. You know don't make the same mistakes twice. Also yea has me a little pissed at myself knowing this was due to myself. At least there is some piece of mind and something learned not to do again. Although it will be a very costly mistake to learn from.

I do appreciate everything but do trust the mechanic I am having do the work. His knowledge is definitely far beyond mine. He has done several engine and cam swaps for the local car club. And why I am scheduled so far out. He has a Camaro right now he is working on and a Vette lined up before mine. He has a full time job at our factory plus works at a machine shop. The only reason I passed over him the first time is because Gwatney told me 3 days and he said it would be close to a month. He's a very cool guy for sure. He's willing to help me pick parts and why he would chose this part over that part. The purpose and function of this part or that part etc. Basically hold my hand and try to teach me some of the basic car knowledge I should have since I will be driving one.

[SuperChuck]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

Chuck, the information above about preload and turning the nut and what not doesn't apply to our cars you can disregard it. Our pedestal mounted rockers are torqued to spec with the valve closed, preload is set with push rod length. Usually 7.4" most builders already know what length to use with what cam but they do sell a tool to measure to see what you need. Your builder will be doing all that though, not you.

Lol awesome not that it takes much but seriously had me bugged out a little I was like oh my gawd that's a lot of shit to worry about. My guy knows what's what for sure but that did have me freaked a little like more shit to go wrong. I know this is way off topic but.....really like those wheels if those are the ones you're using. Almost got the same set for mine but just went with the all back ones not machined :P

[Greenhornet2]

Originally Posted by SuperChuck

Lol awesome not that it takes much but seriously had me bugged out a little I was like oh my gawd that's a lot of shit to worry about. My guy knows what's what for sure but that did have me freaked a little like more shit to go wrong. I know this is way off topic but.....really like those wheels if those are the ones you're using. Almost got the same set for mine but just went with the all back ones not machined :P

I wanted the black zl1 wheels, had a deal set up and the guy bailed. Ended up with these replicas, they are ok for Chinese crap. The finish is inperfect in a couple spots but i'm done spending money lol

[SuperChuck]

Hey yea exactly the ones I have. Gratz to you man still very sexy set up. Sounds amazing to be done spending money gratz again

[Greenhornet2]

Lol, well. Until i break something...