Rotated the tires today. Info/Pics and Discussion!

[SimpleGreen]

I see it discussed from time to time, figured I'd chime in my experience. Maybe someone will see it and get some answers they needed, or chime in something if you have some input.

Car is a 2012 Camaro 1LT with factory 18s/BFG's on the aluminum wheels.

I did my rotation at 5300 miles. I'm not sure what GM recommends but being that (for me, anyways) this is so easy, I don't mind doing it every 5 months. I didn't even break a sweat.

EDIT: As some people input I will make a note up here as well

*The front jack location may be improper. My low pro jack will not reach further under the car. Use a 1x4 wood pad to spread the load. I saw zero damage after I was done. Lift at your own discretion and risk!

*Please use stands under your car. I did not. Sort of forgot, sort of didn't care. But I encourage you to do so. As another member pointed out, hydraulics do fail.

*As for the TPMS reset. I have read you can do it with a tool, some manuals say you need the tool. Please consult the manual that was in your car. I am not buying anything to make that stupid TPMS system reset. I'll just remember that the screen is backwards until I rotate the tires back to their original location. Easy enough...and that's free.

Note: I am not saying the method in which I did this is correct or incorrect, that the jack locations were 100% right, or that the torque specs are either. Rotate your tires at your own risk. I'm 110% confident in my mechanical abilities and did not scratch, bend, twist, buckle, scuff, or otherwise damage my car in this process All told I don't think it took more than 20 minutes and I was BS'ing with some friends that were here while doing so.

Tools used:

*4 way lug wrench - for breaking the lugs loose
*Milwaukee 18V impact - for running the lugs on and off quickly
*Craftsman 1/2" torque wrench - for torquing wheels to spec
*Low pro floor jack and a smaller trolley floor jack - the larger low profile jack is brand new, got it today. My bigger Craftsman jack is old and blew all its seals and no longer pumps up. I bought this one (an all steel low pro) because I needed something low enough to fit under the car and heavy duty enough to lift anything in the driveway (an SUV and two other trucks). The smaller jack is just an old freebie.
*7/8 socket and extension- I read the size may actually be 22MM but I didn't have one. The 7/8 fit fine and didn't slip or mar up my lug nuts.
*Cardboard- I put cardboard on the jack pads so as not to damage the paint and undercoating under the car. I plan on buying a short piece of 1x4 plank wood and cutting 4 pads to use in the future.

Anyways. I put two jacks under one side of the car, as pictured. Jacked each one up to put a little tension under the car, then broke the lugs loose. I then finished jacked the car up, each jack a little at a time to keep the car level. I used my Milwaukee to zip the lugs off and then switch the tires front to back.

I think some people criss cross them but I've heard just as many people don't. My supervisor swapped his tires front to back on his Honda for tens of thousands of miles with no ill effects and was doing the same with his 2012 Camaro until Hurricane Issac totaled it. So whatever, I did it this way.

Once the tires are swapped I put each lug nut on BY HAND to not cross thread, then use the Milwaukee to run each one down and seat the wheel back to the rotor. I then take one jack and release the pressure enough for the car to slowly start dropping, then release the other. If you learn how your jacks release you can get the car back to the ground very nicely by yourself. I then used my lug wrench to torque the wheels to 105 lb ft of torque. The factory spec was 100, the manual says 140. I'll double check the lugs in a few days. Not really worried about it.

So that's all there is to it. Tire rotation made easy and no worries of careless GM techs damaging your baby.

Now I need to go wash it. Cya!

[pouncer72]

Where you're lifting in the front? Yeah, thats not a jack pad. It's thin 18ga steel, with no bracing or backing behind it. You will indent that metal. Lift at the frame rail.

[SimpleGreen]

Originally Posted by pouncer72

Where you're lifting in the front? Yeah, thats not a jack pad. It's thin 18ga steel, with no bracing or backing behind it. You will indent that metal. Lift at the frame rail.

I checked afterward and it was fine. I'll see if I the jack we'll reach further in. If not I'll have my pads by next rotation anyways and that will spread the load out enough anyways. I've seen that location used for 2 post lifts on these cars and it seemed do work fine. I'm picking up the same amount of weight with a similar sized pad.

Thanks

[Supra772]

I rotated mine a few months ago and now when I look at the tire pressure sensor in the car it has the tires on the wrong places. I only figure this out when I went to put air in one of the tires and it was showing up that I was putting air in the wrong one.
Is there a way to reset the sensor? Did you also have this issue?

[SimpleGreen]

Originally Posted by Supra772

I rotated mine a few months ago and now when I look at the tire pressure sensor in the car it has the tires on the wrong places. I only figure this out when I went to put air in one of the tires and it was showing up that I was putting air in the wrong one.
Is there a way to reset the sensor? Did you also have this issue?

I have read there is a tool, and I have read you can do it without one. The 2012 manual says you need the tool. I'll check it out eventually. I'm not really too worried about it. If I can't reset it without a tool it won't be getting done, lol. I'll just remember that the TPMS screen is backwards until the next rotation.

[Synner]

Never work on your car while supported with a jack, use jack stands. Hydraulic things fail followed by a series of unfortunate events: you're pinned, squealing like a stuck pig, and bleeding all over your garage.

[SimpleGreen]

Originally Posted by Synner

Never work on your car while supported with a jack, use jack stands. Hydraulic things fail followed by a series of unfortunate events: you're pinned, squealing like a stuck pig, and bleeding all over your garage.

I considered it, and others should too. Your right!

Matter of fact, my last floor jack started to fail under my ATV. A seal failed from age. I noticed it was leaking down at a fair rate. And that was under 300lbs of weight. I figure one corner of the car would have around 900-950lbs weight on a jack.

But I'm young and dumb and left my two stands by the wall I wasn't under the car so I wasn't too worried about it. I figure I would have spent just as much time under the car setting stands in place as I would have just rotating the tires without them. I figure the risk of getting smashed would have been the same either way. If your a smaller guy and have to sit to pick the wheels up, definitely use stands as your legs are under the car. LS/LT wheels are pretty light and I just kneeled down and slid them on. On my truck I do use a stand however as I have to sit on the ground to put the heavier wheel/tire on.

It's kind of like folks that ride a motorcycle without a helmet. Some just take the risk for convenience. Or forget, in my case. But I also speed, change lanes without signaling, have illegally tinted windows, etc. Ah well.

I'm not afraid to be incorrect This is how everyone learns. I may adjust my methods based on some suggestions and will note them accordingly in the original post, but unless I see an issue I will probably just keep up to my old, effective ways for now. I've swapped enough engines, transmission, tires, and suspension parts over my short bit of life to feel comfortable with my operations.

I also noticed some people use jacks to change oil. I personally use ramps. But that's a different thread.

[Synner]

OK, then you get a great learning opportunity of how to work on your car from a wheelchair. Should be a great lesson.