Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy@Livernois
I think you are completely misreading the quote. I'll play along, even though the pricing in the column is meaningless (all except for the final amount)
1. you state you paid $300 for a tune in the past, that's perfectly fine. If you look, he's "paying" 300 for a custom dyno tune.
2. You state deleting a handheld tuner will save him $500. How? even if you went by the line pricing, the tuner is $300 (again, the line item pricing is meaningless)
3. Really? you don't want to change the plugs and wires while there is zero labor associated with them? Why would anyone skip out on this just to have to do it in a year, and then spend an extra hour or so doing something that took about 3 extra minutes while doing the headers?
4. the LAST thing you should be price shopping for is a dyno tune. It's the most critical item on a successful build, and the first thing people want to cheap out on. Would you price shop a doctor when you needed surgery? Or would you want to know who does the best work and go to them? The Calibration world has many parallels to the medical field. There are hacks out there, and truly gifted craftsmen. I know what side of the fence I am on when it comes to that, but think about it the big picture before being hung up on a price.
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I'll address these one by one. But as you said, I am having difficulty reading the quote because both images are cut off. It is definitely possible something is lost in translation.
1.) $300 is what I paid was for a custom dynotune out the door.
2.) I said the tuner+plugs+wires was about $500. He doesn't "need" plugs and wires, the stockers are very good and should last nearly 100,000 miles. I would take the stockers over most other brands, anyway.
3.) Because there is no point in paying for it. The stock plugs and wires are just fine. That's money that can be spent elsewhere, or saved. Just because you're taking off a couple parts doesn't mean everything else needs to be changed. Besides, these motors are designed to run with those plugs. Changing plugs and wires could yield *worse* performance. Why would you say plugs and wires only last a year? They're rated for 100,000 miles of service life. That's 7-10 years for a daily driver, and if it isn't your daily driver you'll probably sell it with stock plugs.
4.) Which is why I said he should spend $300-400 on a good dynotune. That's not an area you skimp on. I was advising him on how he could save costs, namely:
a.) Buying the material himself and saving mark-up.
b.) Eliminating the handheld tuner. A good dynotune on a bolt-on car is all you need.
c.) Eliminating the plugs and wires because they are unnecessary and won't add any performance, or could degrade performance in the long run.
d.) Doing the labor himself for the header install.
Even if he decides to go to you and have the headers installed and get the dynotune, he can save a lot of money on things he really doesn't need by taking a few of these steps. I'm a contractor by trade, and a partial sale is better than no sale.