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Old 05-14-2013, 09:46 PM   #131
WHAMMO


 
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Drives: 13' 1LE
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
Wrong all the way for you, perhaps. Try to accept the fact that we don't think alike, nor are we likely to necessarily want quite the same sound character. So the best deal for you probably would not be the "best deal" for me even if I hadn't thought about it before.



What I'm consistently hearing in all that ↑↑↑ is that you understand "checkbook modding" very well and that you'll pay somebody else to install mods rather than do the work yourself (correct me if I'm wrong). Sorry if that's not my style and that mine as a DIY'er doesn't agree with your sensibilities.

I'm not trying to change your mind or anybody else's. What I am after is a little better understanding of opinions that run the other way on this matter. Trust me, I do understand why people might like it. It just doesn't have $900 worth of "I like it" in it for me.

Just so you know, I probably have a little more understanding of exhaust systems than you suspect (40+ years engineering background and 45+ years working on my own cars helps). If you're sufficiently interested, I can post up a neat little plot that will graphically show you why V8's with crossplane cranks sound the way they do (including an effect you may have not even noticed before, and why V8's sound way different when you run them through an X-pipe). It's something I worked up as part of a header-back exhaust system effort for a 355 SBC that I spec'ed and fabbed up entirely by myself. All-welded from the 3-bolt header connectors back, including some special treatments for thermal expansion.

As gajagfan suggested, I work my exhaust systems up from a performance first point of view. Then it has to fit, and function without overstressing itself or repeatedly causing gasket failures. Finally it gets around to the sound, which is low man on the totem pole if you will. But I've been happy enough with the resulting sounds so far that I've never had to rework anything. Sure, the jury is still out on the Maxima because it's barely been a week, but my Plan-B for that is only going to cost me a used muffler that cost me maybe $50 about 15 years ago and some time under the car. If/when it dies a few years out, I'll still have the other one. DIY mentality.

What I'll pay $800 for is immaterial here (but I've spent considerably more - each and collectively for sets - on certain other car parts). I just won't ever spend that much for exhaust work. Even with all non-OE parts, that's really just basic repair-level work that I can spec, source, fab, and install myself, and that I'll enjoy the result of all the more because I did it.


Norm
If you never bought a a catback and never did back to back dyno test with different systems your exp on the subject is nothing to be considered. Check book modding? No, but at some point you cant fabricate everything. I installed my last catback and ORY, nitrous, clutch, brake suspension etc.

Are you telling me x pipe and ORY doesnt sound the same? ...I dont think you could teach me that much if you are thinking its breaking news.

Anyway, this thread is useless and I dont even know why we are questionning the purpose of a good catback.

Id rather believe GM engineers than a stock catback Ford Mustang owner On the subject.
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13' 1LE

Old setup: TSP 231-236/Tick 660/.105 PR, UDP, SW LT 2'' & HFC, stock NPP & H pipe, VR-DRX CAI, air scoop, Goertz1 manifold, 102mm BBK, 26" Toyo DRs, Forgestars R17x10 & F18x8, rear seat delete, remote Pat G tune Autocal, 7400 limiter, Spec Mini Twin. 91oct. 11.90@122.3, 0-60ft 2.0 / 11.99@123.6, 0-60ft 2.1 DA+819 ...519RWHP SAE

Solid roller SBE LS3, FED, LLSR, 91oct, 605rwhp N/A. Tuned by Pat G. Build by me.
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