rear cradle woes
 

ok so heres my problem, i have a '10 ss m6. the car doesnt wheel hop at all with the full bmr rear suspension on it including diff bushings and upper control arm mounts. however after my recent cam install when i do a hard 2nd or 3rd gear pull the ass end wags back and forth so bad i practically have to get out of the throttle. im assuming this has to be the stock subframe bushings that i never replaced but i figured i would check here first to make sure im on the right track.

Stiffer rear cradle bushings will most certainly help keep the rear planted while accelerating, if that's what you're asking. I can recommend solid aluminum bushings by Pegasus - they make a huge difference.

I agree

just trying to be sure thats whats causing my problems, i cant think of what else it could be

I'm sure the added power has a lot to do with it. I'm sure cradle bushes will help....and maybe some sticky tires.

Cradle bushings will keep the subframe from unevenly moving, but the cause is likely your diff/limited slip. The truetrac made a big difference for me. The car just drifts when it breaks loose, rather than a back and forth steering affect.

Also the 1LE/ZL1 toe links keep the wheel hub in place fore/aft by replacing the rubber bushing with a spherical bushing. Cheaper/easiest to install.

you kinda lost me, are you saying you think my truetrac is causing it?

i already have bmr toe links, trailing arms, upper control arm mounts, sway bars, diff bushings, 1le shocks and shock mounts

I am on stock power so I installed inserts before I did anything else.
Took all that wishy-washy out of the ass and were relatively easy to install.

With more power you may need poly or solid bushings.

Do Pegasus bushings ever go on sale?

Pegasus bushings were awesome for my car, good price!

I don't have solid bushings, but if I had it to do over again I would probably go that direction. The reason is that it was a chore to get the poly bushings installed in the cradle. Much more difficult than I had imagined. I haven't heard the same issues with solids, so all things being equal I would go for the easier install.

I think the reason I never did subframe bushings was a combination of price, not wanting to mess with getting the old ones out, and honestly the rear end movement was never that bad. So getting the rubber bushings out isn’t that bad?

They're not bad to get out using the ol' heat method (or whatever you want to call it). There is a video on YouTube (search for "camaro removing rear cradle bushings" or something).

Basically, you need to lower the rear cradle enough to fit a 1" wide socket above each bushing, place the socket on top of the bushing, centered, and jack up the cradle (using one jack to support the cradle at the differential and one to push up on the cradle near the bushing), and with the weight of the car on the socket/bushing (so lift the car off the jack stand that you'd probably have near the rear wheel) heat the cradle around the bushing with a torch. Eventually the bushing/glue will get hot enough to melt, and with the weight of the car on the bushing it will slide out. Send me a message if you want more details but that's the gist of it.

I'm pretty inexperienced in general with car/mechanical stuff and pretty much only went by videos and DIY guides and I managed to do it myself in the driveway, so you can do it too! Getting the new solid bushings in is super easy, just make sure to clean out the bushing holes (I used a knife while the glue was hot to scrape it out), and throw the new bushings in the freezer so they shrink. If they are being stubborn to get in, make sure to centre them in the hole really well then just jack up the cradle against the frame to push them in.

Thanks for the info, I had planned on using the socket method to get the old ones out.